An Ottawa River cruise boat approaches Rideau Falls at dusk.

Relations between nations change with the passing of time: foes oft become friends, and defences become attractions. Such is the case with the Rideau Canal, the waterway that's now the "crown jewel" of Canada's capital.

When the War of 1812 ended, Canada believed it would remain vulnerable to continued attacks from the south, particularly along the St. Lawrence River. The Ottawa River, which today forms the boundary between the provinces of Quebec and Ontario, could give access from Montreal to points farther north. However, a secure route was needed from Montreal to the United Empire Loyalist settlements along the shores of the Great Lakes. It was decided to connect the Ottawa River to Kingston on Lake Ontario, using the 120-mile (200 km) Rideau river system. Under the direction of Colonel John By, between 1826 and 1832 Royal Engineers and some 2,000 labourers transformed the river into a fully navigable canal. They added 50 dams, and 47 locks with a total combined lift three times the height of Niagara Falls, making theirs one of the greatest engineering feats of the 19th century. It is now a National Historic Site, administered and staffed by Parks Canada.

Canal cruises are popular summer treats.

The most difficult challenge was at the Colonel's headquarters camp, where they had to contend with rapids and the Rideau Falls at the juncture with the Ottawa River. These were apparently insurmountable obstacles. The only solution was to bypass the rapids and Falls entirely by digging a new waterway, more or less parallel to the river, in two phases. The first part, about a mile (1.6 km) long, would bypass the rapids and lead to a depressed area (now Dow's Lake), which would fill and act as a buffer to stabilize the final section. The last portion, 5 miles (8 km) long would go from the new lake through solid rock with a half dozen locks right where the canal joined the Ottawa River. Meanwhile the original course of the river with its rapids and Rideau Falls would be left unchanged.

After the work was completed, the camp continued to grow, first becoming a rowdy lumbering settlement, then a town named after Colonel By. It was eventually renamed Ottawa, and in 1867 Queen Victoria chose it to become the capital of the new nation, Canada. The expected American military invasion never occurred, so the Rideau Canal never served its original purpose. Gradually a number of small towns and agricultural centres grew along its banks from Kingston northward. Within Ottawa itself the sides of the canal were faced with concrete to prevent erosion, and parklands were added all along both sides. As these improvements took place new "invaders" of a welcome sort began to arrive every summer, as recreational boaters headed north from Lake Ontario to visit the capital. Over the years the canal has become Ottawa's heart and soul, where locals and visitors alike now enjoy leisure, recreational and sporting activities all year round.

In January, it's a 5-mile skating rink.

As the seasons change, the canal's activities keep pace. Through January and much of February, the ice is up to a foot (30 cm) thick, and the five-mile section from downtown to Dow's Lake becomes "the world's longest skating rink". Many people who live near the canal skate to work, and many more go skating at lunch time. Professional, amateur, and just-for-fun races, figure skating exhibitions, and other events are held as part of "Winterlude" festivities.

When the ice melts, the canal is drained and cleaned, then refilled in time for the Tulip Festival in May. Many of the millions of tulips which adorn the city at that time are planted in the parklands along both sides of the canal, and the Festival Regatta on Victoria Day weekend features more than 50 flower-bedecked boats of all kinds. Scantily clad sunbathers emerge from their winter cocoons, and joggers and cyclists begin again to make use of the paths which – with a typically Canadian touch – have a painted centre line to help avoid collisions.

Summer finds the canal chock-a-block with pleasure boats, including many friendly visitors from south of the border. Sporting events are also held on the water and on the shore. In addition to the National Capital Marathon, innumerable mini-marathons, walkathons and other events in support of various charitable organizations are held at least in part along the canal's pathways. The world's largest beach volleyball tournament for charity (approx. 15,000 participants) is held just above the rapids, and Dow's Lake echoes all one weekend in June to the drums of "war canoe" races.

Miles of bike and jogging paths line the canal's sides.

In the fall rowing clubs use the canal for practice, and the biggest charity event is the Terry Fox Run for cancer research. Gradually the activities diminish, and everyone awaits the day near the end of December when the ice is finally thick enough for skating. And the annual cycle begins again.

Those wishing more information on the overall canal and individual locks will find answers to all their questions at Rideau-Info.com. Or find additional information specific to the Ottawa portion of the canal, on this good virtual tour of the canal.

My wife Myrtle and I have enjoyed the canal and its activities for over 20 years, and will soon get a whole new perspective on it, when we take a hot-air balloon ride over the city to celebrate her 75th birthday. Up! Up! And away!

Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our North America Insiders page.