I arrived in Cuzco, Peru, yesterday, and have already discovered that there is an Internet cafe every 5 feet, but apparently toilet paper is a rare commodity...

The people here are extremely friendly and any attempt at Spanish (they call it Castellano – pronounced "cahst-ah-yah-no") is greeted with a big smile and an attempt on their part to speak English. Much to my surprise, I've actually been able to make myself understood – my thanks to Lonely Planet for their Latin American phrasebook.

I've also discovered altitude sickness. It affects a lot of people when they get up this high (12,000 feet, or 3,657 m), and if you're lucky it passes in a couple of days. Symptoms range from headaches to insomnia to constant vomiting. Luckily I only experienced a mild altitude effect that manifested itself as a kind of drunken stupor. I realized I was having a problem when I was re-reading email I was writing and realized the words I was thinking were NOT the words I was typing. The local remedy is mate-de-coca, tea made from coca leaves – the kind in cocaine. After the first three cups I felt much better. I don't know if the remedy worked or if I just didn't notice by that point; in any case, I was a convert to its healing powers and have been drinking it non-stop now.

Cuzco is nestled in a valley surrounded by even higher mountains. It's extremely picturesque and geared toward the tourist crowd. Unfortunately, I've heard it can also be a little dangerous at night in some places – and unfortunately that's where most of the hostels are located. That's okay though, 'cause a taxi only costs 2 soles, or about 70 U.S. cents.

Cuzco is very near the equator, and that helps keep the weather here fairly constant, with an daily average in the low 70s (20s C). But there is a constant cool breeze and I haven't been able to break out the Tevas or the sarong. The sky is a brilliant blue, and I think having a thinner atmosphere allows the greens to stand out even more. The nights have been a little too chilly for me, as the hostel I'm staying in apparently never heard of heating. The 50° nights have me sleeping in my long undies and sweats as I bundle under my sleeping bag and three blankets. Going to the even more freezing bathroom, where you're riding bareback on the seat, is not an option for me in the middle of the night.

A good way to get an introduction to the area is by day tour. Not only are they very cheap (about $7 for a half day and $10 for a full day – and always negotiable) but they are very informative. I didn't know much about the Inca culture, now I realize what a progressive and fascinating society it was. The hillsides here a chock-full of ancient (well, 1400s) cities and fortresses. They used massive stones to build these things, and they had to haul the stones from miles and miles away, up this huge mountain. They also had running water, which they brought in from snow-capped mountains that look like they are days away. The people outside of Cuzco still wear their traditional garb, and the women still wrap up their babies in a colorful shawl they wrap around their back. But no matter how rustic an area, modern life has encroached. For instance, the hill people expect you to pay them a sole if you take their picture – apparently it's big business.

Other encroachments of 21st century life include the Coca Cola signs... EVERYWHERE. And I mean everywhere. You're coming around a switchback in the middle of the mountain range – and there's a billboard!

So far life has been very economical. My hostel is $5 per night for a private room with no bath. Dinner at one of the best restaurants in town (two bottles of mineral water, delicious trout entree, shaved garlic tomato and poached egg soup – I know that sounds weird, but it was awesome) cost about $9 each.

No one's licked my ear here yet, but perhaps there's some strange altitude sickness remedy I'll discover soon.

What I lost today: my ATM card.

Questions?
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