In Jomson, there are formalities to be dealt with, both before you leave and again upon your return. Horses and/or porters can be procured here; the cost is about the same, but with horses you get a local horseman who knows the area very well. Now, with all arrangements finalized, and the peak of Nilgiri looming on the horizon, you are ready to enter into the “forbidden kingdom”.
A word of warning: beware of “Mustang coffee”!
The locals will try to coerce you to imbibe this brew as you start on the trail out of Jomson. This is very strong coffee laced with a generous shot of local brandy. Combined with the altitude, it can be incredibly potent!
It is a five to seven day walk from Jomson to the capital of Lo Manthang, and takes you through some awesome scenery, but remember this trip can be tailored to suit you. We first traveled northeast from Jomson, for about two hours along a dry riverbed, to Kagbeni. A large red gompa (monastery) makes Kagbeni easily recognized.
The temple at Muktinath makes an interesting walk from Kagbeni and can be done in less than a day. After a fairly steep climb to 3000 meters, this ancient temple appears, situated on the slope alongside the proverbial “babbling brook”. This place with its enormous prayer wheel, is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists. We encountered pilgrims who had walked for days to make pilgrimages here and I swear, I recognized some of the resident holy men from my “hippie” days in Cleveland, Ohio!
Mustang has been locked away for centuries, and is no doubt, one of the most interesting parts of Nepal. However the language, customs, and traditions of this region, are pure Tibetan.
From Kagbeni, you walk steep and winding trails through villages where most homes are fashioned from adobe, and the wealth of the individual is measured by the stacks of firewood stored on the rooftop. Sheep horns adorn whitewashed doorways and the people dress in the traditional, brightly striped Tibetan clothing. Prayer flags and chortens (small Tibetan temples) in red and black and white, brighten the landscape. Splashes of green from irrigated fields, and red cliff faces soaring above, offset the starkness of the sandy dry mountains. You can’t help but get caught up in the openness and tranquility that surrounds you.
Along the trail, local homes will occasionally offer a meal and a room for the night. (A night spent here provides real insight into the lives of these mountain people.) Usually, the room will be an addition to the roof of the house, with a dirt floor, a candle for lighting, a straw mattress and a hole in the floor comprises the “en-suite”. (Feeling a bit paranoid, I opted to sleep in full rain gear).
Food is prepared on a wood-burning stove fueled with yak dung and the essence of yak meat, drying on racks above the stove, adds to the overall ambiance. I was glad I had “trail mix” in my pack, but warmer, friendlier people, you will never meet.
After about five days of walking through villages lush with irrigated carpets of green maize and groves of willow trees, the capital Lo Manthang comes into view from beyond a steep pass. This is an ancient castle city guarded by huge walls of red and white brick. Despite the desolate and impoverished appearance and the very arid climate, the city still prospers.
The Champa Lha Kang monastery here dates from 1435 AD and it houses enormous mandalas (intricate circular designs of the universe) and thousands of beautiful Buddhas that, after many centuries, still retain their vibrant colors.
This ancient capital is, no doubt, unique and intriguing, but I found it a bit anti-climatic. For me, the best part of the trip was definitely the journey itself. Keep in mind; you decide the duration and final destination, and the return trip can be done by several different trails.
This trip is not for everyone. It’s expensive and can be difficult at times, but if you want a taste of ancient Tibetan culture blended with the majesty and charm that is Nepal, then go to Mustang. Just remember: plan well ahead of time, don’t overfill your pack and don’t drink too much of that Mustang coffee!