No matter how many times I’ve been to London, I can always find new and out of the way places that most visitors don’t seek out. Sure, I find it necessary to homebase myself in the familiar haunts of central London, like the neighbourhood of Victoria, a paradox hotel and transport haven that’s mixed in with long blocks of white columned flats. This gives me the foundation to go out and find some more of London’s less publicized gems.
I am listing five of my favorite must-see places that any tourist will find educational and unforgettable. What adds to the satisfaction of exploring these places is that they all include free admission except for the last destination, which can be as close to free as you choose.
The Peace Pagoda in Battersea Park
In 1985, Buddhist monks and nuns completed a 100 foot high pagoda, one of less than 100 of its type in the world, in north central Battersea Park, which overlooks the Thames. Battersea Park was once a cesspool of human depravity when it was called the Battersea Fields, but in 1858, this spot became only the second public park opened in London as a respite from the surrounding urban sprawl.
On many occasions, events for the jet set take place here, causing some of the park to be partitioned off from the commoners. I make it one of my traditions on each of my visits to London to take a very early morning walk and jogging pilgrimage from my hotel in Victoria to this sacred site. To see it in a pre-dawn light brings a peace to me as I ponder this structure all to myself.
In the daytime, you may even see athletes on the top steps practicing their gymnastic routines. Once, as I came from the pagoda, I met a film crew shooting some background scenes for a British mystery program. I had the honour of talking to a rigger who is well known in the movie industry. He had done jobs for the Indiana Jones and Star Wars movies, to name a few. Come away from meditating at this site, and you too will find some blessing around the corner.
Directions
If you aren’t into a forty-five minute walking and jogging excursion from the vicinity of Victoria Underground Station like I am, then during the day or evening, hop the Underground to Sloane Square Station on the District and Circle Lines. Then take Bus 137 southbound to the first bus stop south of the Thames called “Queenstown Road-Chelsea Bridge.” From the stop, proceed to your right and you will find yourself at the north entrance of the park, and in front of a path that will take you straight to the pagoda, 10-15 minutes away depending upon the speed of your gait. Open daily, but dawn until dusk hours are the best time to see the pagoda. Viewing is free of charge.
Museum of Childhood at Bethnal Green
For a museum that has the United Kingdom’s largest collection of childhood toys, games, and clothing dating back from the 1500’s, this is one of London’s hidden treasures that doesn’t make the cut of most tourist itineraries to London. Maybe it’s because it’s far from central and west London, located on the less than chic East End. And while many toy and childhood-themed museums in London charge admission, this one does not!
Getting to the museum is bit of a ride on the Central Underground Line, but it is well worth the sojourn, especially if you are into reliving your childhood for a couple of hours, or are fascinated by British social history in general. Here are just some of the subject matters of the galleries at this museum: teddy bears, babies’ and young children’s clothing, on growing up, moving toys, puppetry, children’s theatre-related items, model trains, etc. You can create your own virtual toy on the computer kiosks.
Parents can even bring their small children to this museum with peace of mind. An “under 5” area will occupy the tots, while mom and dad are in the game area replaying some of the board and table games they grew up on. There are exhibits which change every few months. Through October 10, 2004, there are illustrations of The Brothers Grimms’ Fairy Tales and coming October 23, will be an exhibit called “Must Have Toys” that will display the most wanted toys by kids in the 20thcentury like Power Rangers, the Bionic Woman, and the Star Wars Collection from the late 1970’s. The museum, while currently undergoing renovations to make the place more child-friendly and up to date, has also brought back its Optical Toys Exhibit that includes an 18th century wood and card peepshow and a 19th century kaleidoscope.
Directions
On the Underground’s Central Line, go east from Zone 1 until you get to the Bethnal Green Station. At the entrance, turn right on Cambridge Heath Road, and walk until you see the museum on your right, just up the street about a block. Hours are daily from 10:00 a.m. until 5:50 p.m., except Fridays, December 24-26, and January 1, when closed. Admission is free.
Visit the State of Virginia
Each year, over four million people visit the world famous National Gallery in London. Yet, unbeknownst to virtually all the masses, is that while they walk past a statue of George Washington in front of the gallery giving little thought to it, they are missing a chance to be in the State of Virginia.
As the story goes, in 1921, some prominent citizens from Virginia wanted to give a statue of one of America’s founding fathers to the British people, but it was known that George Washington had no desire of setting foot on British soil. Additionally, there was a strong possibility of a public outcry from citizens, some of whom harbored their ancestors’ feelings over the less than splendid results of the American Revolution and Washington’s role in it. So ingeniously, a hole where the statue was to be placed was dug up. The small pit was then filled with a plot of Washington’s native Virginia soil. Go to the statue and put your hand on the grass that the inanimate Washington resides on, and you will be carried back to old Virginia in the midst of the never-ending bustle of central London.
Directions
Take the Underground to Charing Cross Station on either the Northern or Bakerloo lines, and follow the Way Out signs to the front of the National Gallery. Free and open 24/7, as this slice of Virginia is viewable and touchable off a public walkway.
Sir John Soane’s Museum
For those who come to London to admire its architecture, no trek is complete without going to the home of one of London’s most famous and eccentric architects, Sir John Soane. Soane designed the Bank of England and many of London’s lesser known churches and galleries. It’s not the facade of the museum that you will remember, but what you will see when you dare to enter!
Here are a few of the bizarre sights you’ll come across in this former domicile turned virtual time machine. On the ground floor in the Monk’s Parlour, you’ll see grotesque, Gothic casts; a crypt that contains the Sarcophagus of Seti; many priceless artifacts from ancient Egypt, the Orient, and from the medieval and renaissance periods; 17th century, 18th century and neo-classical sculpture.
What really left its imprint on me and the others who toured this place is a picture gallery on the first floor (2nd floor in America), where the panels are covered with paintings; paintings that when Soane got tired of viewing in this room, he would just unfold the walls and out came a new set of panels of more paintings. You’ll have to see this room to believe it.
Directions
Take the Underground Central Line west to Holburn Station, get off and go south for three blocks on Kingsway, and then turn left on Remnant Street. Walk until you notice the street veering south a bit. Cross that street and you are on Lincoln’s Inn Fields. You’ll notice the park to your right where pubic executions were once the main event. Stay on this street until you get to Number 13, half way down the block. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. (first Tuesday of the month has night hours from 6:00 p.m. to 9:00 p.m.), closed Sunday, Monday, Bank Holidays and Christmas Eve.
Saturdays are very busy. Guests must often wait outside because of the museum’s limited capacity to hold visitors, since it’s very densely populated with artifacts and has small hallways. To have less or no wait time outside, it’s best to go during the week. One to five people coming together are admitted free, but groups of six or more are asked to pay a 50 GBP donation for what is then considered a group tour.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
This is my favourite pub/restaurant to grab a good meal because of its history and ambience. The Cheshire Cheese building dates back from 1667, rebuilt after the Great Fire of London a year earlier, and has survived fifteen British monarchs since. The site was once the locale of a 13th century Carmelite monastery, whose vaulted cellars survived the great blaze that ravaged 17th century London.
There are so many narrow halls and staircases that lead to the eating areas. As a result, this maze-like layout even confuses the barristers and journalist patrons, who primarily make up the clientele. The prices won’t break your budget and you’ll have the satisfaction of dining where Samuel Johnson, and Charles Dickens frequented.
Here’s a sampling of what you can sink your teeth into besides the traditional British dishes of Ye Famous Steak & Kidney Pudding or Fish & Chips. For appetizers, try the Crab and Coriander Potato Cake or the Duck and Port Pate. For the main courses, try one of these: Roast Loin of Pork with Apple and Cranberry Stuffing or Poached Salmon Salad with Cucumber Mayonnaise. For dessert, try some Spotted Dick (boiled pudding with fruit bits).
The bar is open Monday-Saturday from 11:30 a.m. to 11:00 p.m., and on Sundays from Noon to 3:00 p.m. The restaurant is open Monday-Friday from noon to 9:30 p.m; Saturday from noon to 2:30 p.m., and 6:00 p.m. to 9:30 p.m; Sunday from noon to 2:30 p.m.
Directions
From Temple Underground Station on the District and Circle Lines, turn right at the Temple Place. Exit and walk a half block east until you get to Arundel Street to your left. Walk north a few blocks until you get to The Strand. Turn right and keep walking. You will pass St. Clements Danes Church and the Temple Bar Memorial. You will then be on Fleet Street.
Walk a couple of blocks on the left hand side of the street until you come to the 140’s, where you will eventually see on your left a small alleyway called Shoe Lane that leads to the Cheshire Cheese, which is actually in Wine Office Court. Yet the official address is 145 Fleet Street. You can have a meal, a pint of beer or tea, all of which are competitively priced with other restaurants and pub grub houses.
About the Author
Roy A. Barnes is a freelance writer based in Cheyenne, Wyoming. He has visited Great Britain seven times since he first began to travel abroad in 1998.
Questions?
If you want more information about this area you can email the author or check out our Europe Insiders page.