Peru Travel Guide

Overview and Things to Consider

Peru runs from Pacific beaches over the Andes to the Amazon basin, three distinct geographic zones with equally distinct cultures. Machu Picchu, the Incan citadel perched 2,430 meters above the Sacred Valley, is still the main draw, and it deserves to be. Beyond it are the colonial architecture of Cusco and Lima, highland textiles and markets, Amazon jungle reached from Iquitos, and the Nazca Lines etched into the southern desert plains. Spanish is the official language, with Quechua widely spoken in the highlands. Tourism infrastructure is well developed, so Peru is easy for first-time South America travelers and comfortable for experienced ones.

Peru's tourism has matured a lot since 2016. Lima's restaurant scene has exploded and now rivals Buenos Aires for culinary innovation in South America, with Maido, Central and newer places pushing boundaries. You can stay anywhere from backpacker hostels (everywhere in Cusco and Lima) to luxury lodges in the Sacred Valley and the Amazon. Getting around means domestic flights, a big bus network and the scenic train to Machu Picchu. Prices have risen a lot, especially for the main attractions and accommodation, but Peru is still cheaper than Chile and Argentina. English has improved, especially in Cusco, Lima and other tourist-heavy areas.

Peru has real problems. Political instability has disrupted the country periodically, with road blockades, strikes and unrest hitting transport and tourism, and 2023-2024 saw serious turmoil. Things have improved but are still unpredictable, so check current conditions before you travel. Altitude sickness (soroche) hits many visitors - Cusco sits at 3,400 meters, and some treks go above 4,000 meters. You need time to acclimatize. The high season (June-August) brings crowds to Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley, prices peak, and you have to book ahead. Lima takes some awareness, particularly in certain neighborhoods and after dark, but it's still accessible and worth your time.

Getting There and Around

Jorge Chavez International Airport in Lima is the main way in, with flights from North America, Europe and around South America. LATAM is the dominant regional airline, alongside Avianca, Sky Airline and others. Lima to Cusco is a 1.5-hour flight and essential for a Machu Picchu trip. Flights to Iquitos for the Amazon leave from Lima or other jungle hubs. Domestic flights are reasonably priced and worth it for long distances. Going by bus is cheaper but exhausting (Lima to Cusco is 20+ hours by bus versus 1.5 hours by air).

On the ground you have buses (extensive network, variable quality), trains (including the Cusco-Machu Picchu line) and taxis or rideshare (Uber operates in Lima and Cusco). In Lima and Cusco, taxis and rideshare are the safest option. Long-distance buses range from luxury overnight services to basic economy. The train to Machu Picchu is expensive ($50-150+ USD depending on service level), but it saves you a hard 4-hour walk from the trail terminus. Or trek the Inca Trail (4 days, permits required, book months ahead), or combine bus and train. You can reach the Sacred Valley from Cusco by bus or on an organized tour. Most visitors do Machu Picchu with a guided tour that covers transport, entrance and historical context.

What's Changed Since 2016

Peru's tourism industry looks very different now. Lima's food scene has become a draw in its own right, with Central, Maido and many others raising the city's culinary standing worldwide. Boutique hotels and luxury lodges have multiplied in Cusco and the Sacred Valley. Machu Picchu now requires advance reservations (introduced after the pandemic to manage crowds), and entrance fees have gone up a lot. Inca Trail permits must be booked through licensed operators months ahead. Some regions have better roads, though major highways are still rough. Several archaeological sites, including Moray and Ollantaytambo, have opened or expanded for visitors.

Political instability is the biggest change. Unrest, road blockades and strikes have disrupted travel and safety, particularly in the highlands and the south. Things have improved since 2022-2023 but remain volatile. Mining has expanded, with environmental and social effects in some regions. Indigenous communities are speaking up more about tourism's impact and cultural appropriation, which has started conversations about respectful travel. Prices are up across the board, and accommodation, food and entrance fees cost considerably more than in 2016. Rainfall in the highlands is increasingly irregular, and water scarcity has hit some regions. Internet has improved a lot in cities. English is more common but still limited outside tourist areas.

Ideas to Consider for Your Visit

Machu Picchu is the headline, and the scale, setting and history justify the hype. Go early (6-7 AM) to beat the crowds and watch the mist clear off the mountains. Book entrance tickets ahead, because they sell out in high season. The 4-day Inca Trail is the immersive way in, but it takes fitness, acclimatization and advance permits. Otherwise there are day trips from Cusco, the train, or the Sacred Valley circuit. Ollantaytambo, Pisac and Urubamba in the Sacred Valley have markets, textiles and Incan ruins without the Machu Picchu crowds. Give Cusco's Plaza de Armas and colonial quarter two days for the Cathedral, the Church of Santo Domingo (built on top of an Incan temple) and the local museums.

Give Lima's food scene at least 3-4 days. Eat at the high-end places (Maido, Central, Astrid y Gaston) and at the excellent cheap spots in Barranco and Miraflores. The Nazca Lines in the southern desert are overrated as an experience (a small-plane flight, little ground access) but archaeologically significant if that interests you. The Amazon from Iquitos delivers real jungle and wildlife, but lodges vary widely in quality and ethics, so spend your 3-4 days with a responsible operator. Lake Titicaca, reached from Puno near the Bolivian border, has high-altitude lake culture, islands and local communities. Colca Canyon is good for trekking through dramatic mountain terrain. Specific foods to try: ceviche (raw fish in citrus), causa (a potato-based dish), alpaca meat and pisco (grape brandy from Peru's coastal regions).

Realities to Be Aware Of

Altitude sickness hits most visitors to Cusco and the highlands, with headache, dizziness, nausea and fatigue. Give yourself 2-3 days at elevation before any trek. Medication (acetazolamide) can help; talk to a doctor before you go. Drink coca tea, rest and move slowly. Serious altitude sickness is rare and means descending and getting medical attention. Lima has security problems in certain neighborhoods (avoid Cono Sur and La Victoria after dark; stick to Barranco, Miraflores and San Isidro). Petty theft and robbery happen. Use registered taxis or rideshare, keep valuables out of sight, and travel with companions who stay alert. Tourist police patrol the main areas.

Political unrest and road blockades can disrupt travel without warning. Stay away from strikes and protests, and check conditions before you go, especially before heading to Cusco or the southern highlands. Some routes may close temporarily, and buses in remote areas can be unreliable. Drink bottled water outside major cities. Traveler's diarrhea is common, so bring medication. Healthcare in Lima is reasonable, though serious conditions may need a private clinic, and facilities in Cusco and smaller towns are basic. Travel insurance is essential. Visas depend on nationality, and many nationalities get 90 days visa-free. UV is extreme at high altitude, so use strong sunscreen and sunglasses. Machu Picchu is expensive ($50-65 USD plus transport), so budget for it. Tourist scams exist (overpriced tours, currency exchange fraud, bag theft), so book through established operators.

If Peru Is Part of a Longer Trip

Peru fits into a lot of South American routes. The classic one adds Bolivia (Lake Titicaca, Uyuni Salt Flats) and Chile (Atacama Desert, Patagonia). From Lima you can connect to Ecuador (Quito, Amazon), Colombia (Bogota) and Brazil (Rio, Amazon). The Andean circuit (Peru-Bolivia-Chile-Argentina) is standard for trekkers and culture-focused travelers. Bus networks cross Peru's borders, though travel times are long. Flights to regional hubs are frequent and reasonably priced.

From Brazil, you can reach Peru via Iquitos in the jungle or overland through Bolivia. You can cross the Peru-Ecuador border, though it has seen occasional tension. A longer South America trip might give 3-4 weeks to the Peru-Bolivia-Chile triangle: Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca, Uyuni Salt Flats, San Pedro de Atacama, then south toward Patagonia. For Peru alone, budget at least 2-3 weeks to cover Lima, the highlands and at least one jungle or Amazon area. Because so many travelers pass through, Peru often works as a base for the wider region.

Yearly Things to Consider

Peru's climate changes a lot by region. The highlands have a dry season (May-September) and a wet season (November-March). Dry season brings clear skies, comfortable temperatures and the best trekking, along with peak crowds and the highest prices. Wet season means daily afternoon rain, muddy trails and obscured views, but cheaper rooms and fewer crowds. April and October are transitional. The Amazon is warm and humid all year (25-30 degrees Celsius / 77-86 Fahrenheit), a bit less rainy in the dry season but still wet. The coastal desert (Lima, Nazca) is hot and dry most of the year, with some rain possible in El Nino years. Machu Picchu sits in cloud forest, where fog is common year-round, but views are most likely May-September. June-August is peak season, with clear weather and massive crowds. December-January is Peru's summer, the opposite of the Northern Hemisphere, and school holidays bring tourists and high prices. February-April is clearer than the wet season proper, with good prices and fewer tourists, and it's underrated. September-November brings improving weather, lower prices and moderate crowds.

Month by month: June-August is best for trekking (dry and clear) but crowded and expensive. May and September are the sweet spot, with good weather and no peak crowds. February-April has frequent afternoon showers but lower prices and fewer tourists. November-December is shoulder season, with reasonable weather and growing crowds and prices. January is peak season, with the highest prices and most tourists, especially at Machu Picchu. The big festivals are Inti Raymi (June 24, with performances and ceremonies in Cusco) and Corpus Christi (dates vary, usually June), and both can tie up accommodation. Lima's coast is mild year-round (15-30 Celsius / 59-86 Fahrenheit). Cusco averages 10-20 Celsius (50-68 Fahrenheit), with cold nights at 5 Celsius (41 Fahrenheit). High-altitude treks can get near freezing at night.

Ideas for Itineraries

3 Days in Peru

Fly into Lima and spend days 1-2 there. On day one, cover Miraflores (coastal views, restaurants), Barranco (galleries, a bohemian feel) and the Historic Center (Cathedral, Plaza Mayor). Make day two about food - book a good mid-range restaurant (Michelin spots need advance reservations) and explore the local markets. On day three, fly to Cusco and try for a last-minute Machu Picchu day tour, or spend the day acclimatizing in Cusco's Historic Center. It's rushed, but you get Lima and at least a glimpse of Incan heritage. If you skip Lima, spend all 3 days in Cusco and the Sacred Valley, with one day for Machu Picchu.

5 Days in Peru

Spend days 1-2 in Lima as above. Fly to Cusco on the evening of day 2 or the morning of day 3, and spend day 3 acclimatizing. Day 4 is Machu Picchu - book a guided tour with train and entrance included (a full day with an early start). On day 5, return to Cusco and either see more of the Historic Center or visit a Sacred Valley site like Ollantaytambo or Pisac. The pace is manageable and leaves time for the altitude.

1 Week in Peru

Days 1-2: Lima (neighborhoods, food, museums). Day 3: fly to Cusco and acclimatize. Days 4-5: Machu Picchu day tour plus half a day in Cusco's Historic Center. Days 5-6: Sacred Valley circuit, with the Ollantaytambo ruins, Pisac market and ruins, and the Urubamba towns. Day 7: back to Cusco for a last look, or fly out. Or skip Lima and spend all 7 days around Cusco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu.

2 Weeks or More in Peru

Days 1-2: Lima (neighborhoods, restaurants, museums, the coast). Days 3-4: acclimatize in Cusco and explore the Historic Center. Days 5-7: Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu, as day trips from Cusco or staying in the valley. Days 8-9: or do the 4-day Inca Trail instead (book the permit ahead). Days 10-12: the Amazon from Iquitos (3-4 days, separate flights). Days 13-14: back to Lima, or Lake Titicaca and Puno in the southern highlands. Days 14+: fly home or continue to Bolivia (the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca, Uyuni Salt Flats) or Chile. Take the altitude seriously and book Machu Picchu well ahead.