We gathered at the trailhead for a briefing prior to the 2½ km walk to Banunggulung, where there is a small watering hole and a place to observe the dragons safely. Because the deer which form much of the dragons’ diet must come here for water, we were assured of dragon sightings. We were advised
We gathered at the trailhead for a briefing prior to the 2½ km walk to Banunggulung, where there is a small watering hole and a place to observe the dragons safely. Because the deer which form much of the dragons’ diet must come here for water, we were assured of dragon sightings. We were advised to stay on the path and be alert for Timor deer, dragons, tropical birds, monkeys, cobras, and such exotic vegetation as bromiliads, orchids…my mind was wandering as I scanned the surrounding brush for lurking lizards, but I was SURE he had said cobras! He had my full attention now. Yes, he reiterated, there are many cobras on the island. My guidebook seconded his assertion that the island fairly teems with snakes, both poisonous and otherwise. And I had come here on purpose, on VACATION?
The 30 minute hike is easy, the trail well marked. As we strolled, we became more comfortable, eagerly examining the snails, flowers, and birds pointed out to us by our guide. We glimpsed a very nervous deer in the distant foliage, and across the dry riverbed a large ora slept through our noisy passage.
Just before arriving at the waterhole, our attention was diverted to a crashing in the brush beside the trail, and we were amazed to see a large dragon feeding. The deer must have been killed that morning, but it was almost entirely consumed. The dragon ferociously gripped the carcass in his jaws, thrashing it from side to side against tree trunks. I could not help but compare its actions to those of Great White sharks and their terrifying feeding frenzies.
This fellow allowed us to approach to within 10 feet of him before our guide warned us back. The dragon’s belly literally dragged the ground, and still he ate. We learned that a dragon can consume prey up to ¾ his body weight, and that he wastes nothing, eating bones and hide. There is so much calcium in the diet from the bone that dragon dung is white. We were to recall that gastronomic fact later in the trip!
We continued our trek to the waterhole, stepping lightly after observing two brown cobras along the path. Much to my relief, they seemed more eager to avoid us than we did them. By the time we reached our destination, we had become quite comfortable in our surroundings, unfazed by the large sign that cautioned, "DANGEROUS AREA, BE SILENT, KOMODO CROSSING". We had, after all, survived both venomous vipers and dining dragons. Besides, we were protected by a guide who seemed quite competent with his big stick and as long as he was not concerned, who were we to worry?
The small waterhole was indeed populated by several dragons of varying sizes. They were somnolent, lying scattered through the area looking more like weathered logs than lethal lizards. They were in fact very easy to overlook, so well did they blend into their surroundings. For the most part, they ignored us, raising their heads and becoming alert only when hearing a close imitation of a bleating goat. It seems that until only a few years ago, visitors were able to attract and observe the dragons by purchasing a goat from the natives. The goat was then tethered and staked near the water hole where its bleating brought the dragons. Fortunately for the goats and sensitive tourists, there were protests, and this is now an unacceptable practice.
Our return to the pier was uneventful, with the exception of the capture and release of a small "flying lizard". Plucked from a tree trunk, unnoticed by us but found by our guide’s sharp eye, the little six-inch reptile has grown webs between his forelegs and body which allow him to leap and soar great distances from tree to tree. With sharks below sea level and dragons above, what better adaptation for survival could there be?
At the pier we were accosted by the world’s true predators, the local vendors! A score of young natives selling carved wooden and shell dragons pounced at the least indication of interest in their wares and we were hard pressed to escape with our dignity and pocketbooks intact. Rescue appeared in the form of our boat crew, who laughed at our predicament and escorted us back to the dinghies. Back on our boat, we continued our meandering way south, sure that we had left the dragons behind and grateful for the opportunity to have seen them.
Read Part 3