A Day of Ruins – Ecuador, South America

practical-guide
Updated Mar 10, 2019

On a mission, Tyrel Nelson learns more about the past of his historic new home.


I was on a mission. Sick of taking pictures of churches and plazas, I set out that bright Saturday

with the intention of seeing what else the capital of Ecuador’s Azuay Provinces had to offer. Not only had I read about

them, but a few of my fellow CEDEI (Centros de Estudios Interamericanos) teachers

raved about some interesting ruins in the southeast corner of Cuenca’s

historical center. To that end, I went out to search what the hype was all about.

[IMAGE: image-001.jpg | alt: Todos Santos Ruins]

Todos Santos Ruins


It was 11:00 am

when I started eastward. I sauntered for

several minutes down Calle Larga; the major street running parallel on the

north side of Cuenca’s

Tomebamba River.

As the midday rays scorched my face, I saw a sign with an arrow pointing

to ruins; I opted to descend the Bajada de Todos los Santos. Hardly any time passed before I noticed a

small gated area containing a few rock formations to my left. I glanced at the sign above the entrance and

realized I was looking at the Todos Santos Ruins.


Almost

forty years ago, workers were clearing this area and uncovered some

unusual looking stones. Upon further

digging, rock structures of Cañari, Incan and Spanish origin were

discovered. These ruins consisted of three

distinct building styles, and were eventually put on public display. I was impressed by the remnants of a Spanish

watermill that rested atop smooth Incan stonework and covered rougher Cañari

rocks. As a result, I took a few

pictures of the different construction methods on display and quickly moved on.


Next, I

returned to Calle Larga and continued east for a few more minutes before

arriving at my destination: the Museo del Banco Central. Despite my conclusion that all of the

museum’s floors were decorated with appealing pieces of the city’s past as well

as its pre-Cuencan history, I was truly captivated by the highest level. Featured above were spellbinding, very

elaborate showcases of Ecuador’s various ethnicities. Carefully viewing the

intriguing exhibits for awhile, I then took the advice of my guidebook and

rushed to the green grounds out back.

[IMAGE: image-002.jpg | alt: Pumapungo Ruins]

Pumapungo Ruins


The Pumapungo

ruins sit on a huge site behind the Museo del Banco Central. Sweating profusely due to the intense sun, I

took dozens of pictures of the pre-Columbian foundations scattered atop a

terraced hill, which overlooked a lush park.

While I followed the snaking paths of the gorgeous greenspace, I noticed

various types of peculiar plants (even cactuses) and crops, such as corn. I meandered past the verdant park’s

pond and circled a small building that housed several kinds of soaring and

tropical birds. There were, in fact, countless

macaws, eagles and amazons. After

digitally preserving many of the colorful birds, I ascended a

steep staircase, which led to the site’s exit.


Quite

satisfied with the day, I still felt a bit disappointed I had to end my visit,

but I was in a hurry. Catching my breath

after struggling with the stairs, I suddenly realized it was just a couple

of minutes before 1:00 PM (closing time); my backpack was still behind the

museum’s ticket counter.