Our experience began with a 90 minute informal discussion with the tour leader showing videos of introductory rafting techniques, followed by more advanced explanations and footage of the section of river we would be traversing.
Needless to say we were shown some of the more spectacular rapids more than once, giving us that sick feeling of excitement in our bellies. This was followed by an explanation of the safety procedures we would be following, introduction of the guides, and the brief list of things we would need to bring with us.
Our group of 12 was the minimum number they would take. Generally groups range from 12-20. There were also 3 guides for the rafts and 2 in kayaks.
We began to assemble at the Plaza de Armas around 7am the following morning. Our very well-used minibus arrived around 8, already heavily burdened with equipment and provisions. After a few group photos, we climbed aboard, squeezing ourselves amongst oars and life jackets. It was too late for a refund.
After a 5 hour trip (excluding a 2 hour delay to change a wheel) we arrived at our drop point. We had travelled less than 50 miles from Cuzco, however the state of the roads were no better than those throughout Peru.
After lunch we received an hour’s reiteration of basic manoeuvres and a more detailed instruction of safety measures and procedures, both in and out of the raft. All the rapids we would encounter that day were comprehensively discussed, which gave us a good impression of what to expect.
We then had to divide ourselves up into raft teams. I chose the 5 person raft. The balance of this choice was heavily weighted by the fact that the guide’s name was Jesus, who was reassuringly well muscled, and had a (unsurprisingly) reassuring countenance. This proved to be an excellent decision, as Jesus was local, spoke excellent English, and spent the time between rapids explaining local customs, beliefs, and past experiences.
At the introductory lecture we were told that once dropped, the only way out was by raft. After pushing off that first afternoon, only once did we pass under a bridge and that was the only road we saw. Once we glimpsed a goat track, and we saw only 2 people outside of our group.
Throughout, the majority of the river bank consisted of steep cliffs 20+ metres in height, with encroaching dry forest and undergrowth. Our portage around a class VI rapid required extreme agility from all, and the strength of 10 well muscled persons to haul our rafts and equipment a mere 100 yards over large boulders and steep, smooth sided escarpments. These features made for inspirational scenery, but certainly limited our way out of the ravine to the river.
DAY 1
The first afternoon on the water we traversed class I to III rapids, which gave us time to become co-ordinated as a raft team and gather confidence for the more challenging rapids on the days to follow. We spent a long time going around in circles, practising sprints from one bank to the other, and cooling off under waterfalls.
Arriving at the first night’s campsite (which are not always the same for each trip), we pitched our tents and went in search of a waterfall (freezing) to wash in while the guides organised dinner.
Throughout the trip the atmosphere was one of a lads camp out. The food was excellent and plentiful, and the stories large but amusing. While we were told we would be camping on sandy beaches, we quickly discovered a mat to be essential. The thin layer of sand at the first campground produced a very uncomfortable night for those without.
FACTS FOR THE VISITOR:
The word Apurimac can be translated from Indian to mean “God Speaker”. Local Indian religion is based largely on the Earth, and the quality of noise made by the swiftly flowing water through the ravine, combined with the wind, was thought to be the voice of the Gods.
Organised whitewater rafting tours are becoming an increasingly popular attraction available to the hoards of people who flock to Cuzco to visit the Inca ruins Machu Pichu.
There are now several outfits whose sole enterprise is conducting 3-5 day rafting trips on the Apurimac River, which offers a range of rapids from class I to VI.
The official season is June to October, but the dependent factor is seasonal rainfall. We did a 3 day trip in the first week in December.
The outfit we went with was Instinct. I rate them very highly. The guides were mostly locals with international experience in whitewater rafting and kayaking, who knew the Apurimac River very well.
They were friendly, and deserved the trust we placed in them. Everything was well organised (bearing in mind it was Peru). We even got a free T-shirt.
It cost US$90 per person for 3 days, which included all food and equipment. The Instinct office is located in Gringo Alley off the Plaza de Armas.
Things you need to take include a sleeping bag and mat, long pants and shirt, socks, and most importantly sun screen and insect repellent. Not the insect repellent fount in Peru.
You need DEET.
The sand flies were a definite hardship. I received 106 bites on my hands and legs, even with protection. Most of these I received while going to the bathroom!