Saturday 28th October
This morning I woke up at the unearthly hour of 4 a.m. Patrick, Paul and John were also up. For breakfast we had porridge, omelettes and toast. Outside, we could see the market getting underway. At the table, the topic of discussion was which route we would take: Gokyo or Kala Pattar. The others haven’t decided yet but I am going to Gokyo first. Anu said that because a crevasse has closed, the pass, the Cho La, from Gokyo to Lobuche is not as treacherous as it used to be. I will use the pass to Kala Pattar because it will save time and will avoid backtracking.
After breakfast I walked down to the market. It is held every Saturday. Namche Bazaar, the traditional trading centre for the Sherpa, was all hustle and bustle, full of colour, noise and smells. One little corner was full of shops and market stalls overloaded with brightly coloured jumpers, patterned scarves, etc. The town had come alive and was packed. It certainly was a hive of activity with the locals jostling for space, bartering and stocking up on their weekly provisions. Trekkers took photos, bought souvenirs, food provisions, chocolate bars, etc.
It is obvious that the market is a meeting place for the Sherpas. This is where they exchange gossip and trade supplies. Sherpas milled in the streets while the trekkers did their shopping. There were several Tibetans seated among the barrels of rice, grain and yak carcasses. They looked dark and mysterious with broad cheekbones and jet black waxy hair. An hour was spent wandering around taking in the sights. It really is a different world here. All I bought were some Mars bars for the trek ahead. At 10 a.m. I paid my bill, said cheerio to the others, and made for Khumjung.
It took about an hour to reach Shyangboche. This is directly above Namche but is not visible from down below. There are a few buildings, a small lodge and an airstrip that serves the Everest View Hotel. The hotel was a Japanese scheme to build a deluxe hotel with great views of the highest mountains on earth. Here, I stopped and drank a litre bottle of water to quench my thirst.
To get to Khumjung there is a climb northeast from the airstrip past a large chorten in a blue pine forest. The descent down the hill didn’t take long and the long line of mendan on the road was clearly visible. On the right is the school founded by Sir Edmund Hillary. To the left are Kunde and numerous potato fields. Khumjung is a picturesque village with many beautiful houses. The houses with Western-style windows, corrugated tin roofs, and chimneys stand out. It is one of the most affluent areas in the Khumbu. Khumjung’s gompa is at the top end of town and is set amid a pleasant stand of protected trees. It took a while to find the Nima Guest House that had been highly recommended. Bemu, the woman who runs it, is lovely and very friendly.
I have got the whole dormitory to myself, which is great. The views out of the window are truly superb. Kangtaiga, Thamserku and Ama Dablam are clearly visible. Ama Dablam is like an image a child might conjure up in their imagination. It resembles a snow-capped pyramid and is a spectacular sight.
Lunch – egg and noodle soup – was delicious. Afterwards I had a shower and then washed some of my clothes. It felt as if I was the only person in the village. Tourism has had little impact and few trekkers stay here. Khumjung has a lot to offer. I am glad I am staying here because it is very pleasant and relaxing, and there are few people about.
It was a short walk to Kunde because it virtually adjoins Khumjung. Although close, the two villages are entirely separate communities associated with different gompas. Kunde is well known for its hospital built in 1966 as a Himalayan Trust project. Unfortunately it was closed for the day, but you can get an idea of what it is like by peeking through the windows. On the way back I bumped into John, the Kiwi, who was taking photos using a tripod. The gang have decided to go to Gokyo and are staying at a lodge nearby. I will be rejoining them tomorrow. It will be good to have some company.
John is a professional photographer and lives in Taiwan. A magazine has paid him to come to Nepal and take photos of the Everest region – all right for some! Before returning to my lodgings I chatted to Paulo who is a civil engineer with an MBA qualification. He loves travelling between contracts and has been in Nepal for five months. On learning that I’m reliant on lip-reading he told me about the robot in the film ‘2001’. It had wiped out the last of the human race because of its ability to lip-read – I found this very amusing.
Back at Nima’s dinner was dal bhat followed by chips in ketchup – yum yum. It went down a treat. There is a Danish couple staying here as well as Fabio and Romina from Switzerland. The latter have extended their stay to see the Mani Rimdu festival and have already booked their room for the event. They have said they will book me a room for the festival, when they go through Deboche tomorrow, because the rooms get booked up in advance. It is better to be safe than sorry.
I have got the whole dorm to myself so I will be sleeping on three mattresses piled on top of one another! Before retreating to bed I gazed at the night sky for ages. It was beautiful.