Travelogue from Ian Reynold's trip to Nepal to trek and get as close to Everest as possible, without actually climbing it.
The Solu-Khumbu region is a magnet for mountaineers, adventurers and trekkers who are drawn by a desire to see Mount Everest, the world’s highest mountain. The exploits of Mallory and Irvine, Hillary and Tenzing add to the mountain’s mystique.
In the autumn of 1995 I went to Nepal to trek through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in the world. The aim was to get as close as possible to the top of Everest without actually climbing it.
On arrival in Kathmandu I discovered that all aeroplane flights to Lukla, the start of my trek, had been cancelled. It appeared that my trip had been scuppered before I had even started.
Would I fulfil my dream of seeing Everest? Read on and find out what happens on my trek through Nepal.
Arrival
Saturday 21st/Sunday 22nd
Overbooked flights and lost luggage. Not the best start.
Monday 23rd
A visit to the Immigration Office, luggage found and Kathmandu awaits.
Tuesday 24th
Exploring Pashupatinath, Swayambhunath and Kathmandu.
Everest Trek Schedule
October ’95
Wednesday 25th
Fly into Lukla. Lukla (2850m) – Phakding (2640m) – Monjo (2815m)
Thursday 26th
Monjo – Jorsale – Namche Bazaar (3450m)
Friday 27th
Acclimatisation day: Thame (3800m)
Saturday 28th
Namche Bazaar – Shyangboche (3900m) – Khumjung (3790m). Side trip to Kunde (3840m)
Sunday 29th
Khumjung – Mong (3973m) – Dole (4040m)
Monday 30th
Dole – Luza (4360m) – Machermo (4410m)
Tuesday 31st
Acclimatisation day: Machermo Ri
November ’95
Wednesday 1st
Machermo – Panka (4465m) – Gokyo (4750m)
Thursday 2nd
Side trip to: Donag / The Fourth Lake (4870m) Ngozumpa / The Fifth Lake (4990m). Scoundrels View
Friday 3rd
Side trip to: Gokyo Ri (5340m). Gyazumpa – The Six Lakes
Saturday 4th
Side trip to Gokyo Ri. Gokyo – Ngozumpa glacier – Dragnag (4700m)
Sunday 5th
Dragnag – Cho La pass (5420m) – Dzonghla (4850m)
Monday 6th
Dzonghla – Dughla (4600m) – Lobuche (4940m)
Tuesday 7th
Lobuche – Gorak Shep (5170m) – Kala Pattar (5554m) – Lobuche – Pheriche (4820m)
Wednesday 8th
Pheriche – Orsho – Pangboche (4000m) – Deboche (3770m). Side trip to: Tengboche (3860m)
Thursday 9th
Deboche – Tengboche – Phunki Tenga (3250m) – Sanasa (3600m) – Namche Bazaar
Friday 10th
Namche Bazaar – Monjo – Phakding – Lukla
Saturday 11th
Fly back to Kathmandu
From Kathmandu
Sunday 12th
Day trip to Bhaktapur and its many temples.
Monday 13th
Off to Pokhara for a few days and the early signs of giardia.
Tuesday 14th
Viewing the amazing Annapurna range from Sarangkot outside of Pokhara.
Wednesday 15th
Back in Pokhara, resting off the effects of the illness.
Thursday 16th
A long bus ride back to Kathmandu and some last minute errands to sort out.
Friday 17th
Time to fly home with a short stop in Bangladesh.
Post-Trip
Afterword
Reflections on a fantastic trip to some of the most spectacular and beautiful scenery in the world.
Glossary
Look here for any terms you’re not familiar with.
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