Hurghada

Hurghada in 2026 is a 40-kilometer resort strip with a working Egyptian town at its northern end. The reefs sit offshore and need a boat, the pound trades near 52 to the dollar, and Luxor's tombs are a four- to five-hour drive inland.

Updated October 2026

BootsnAll Scorecard

5.4 / 10

Hurghada scores well on what it costs and on the water, and poorly on everything that happens on land between your hotel and the reef, from sprawl and haggled taxis to a patchy boat fleet and a town built for package holidays.

Value
7.5
Near the 8 anchor for anyone holding dollars or euros, with dorms at $7 to $12 and a cheap lunch around $3.34, pulled down by foreigner pricing at the edges, like the $35 aquarium ticket and resort-hotel dive rates.
Getting around
4
Below the 5 anchor, because the city strings out for close to 40 kilometers, no bus leaves the airport terminal, taxis run on negotiation, and the reefs and Luxor both need a boat or a long road trip.
Crowds and timing
6.5
Rain is close to zero and the sea stays between 22°C and 29°C all year, but June to September highs of 96°F to 100°F (35°C to 38°C) and the winter charter rush shape when you can enjoy it.
Safety and hassle
5
Ordinary resort-town caution plus a few specific risks, namely touts and haggled fares on land and an unevenly regulated boat fleet that lost the Sea Story in November 2024 and a tourist submarine in March 2025.
Food and drink
5.5
Slightly better than the 5 anchor if you eat koshari, falafel and grills in El Dahar, but the resort buffets that most visitors eat at are forgettable and stomach trouble from heat and hygiene is common.
Indie fit
4
Closer to the 2 anchor than the 8, since the city is built around all-inclusive blocks and excursion desks, though El Dahar, independent dive shops and the bus to Luxor keep a door open for anyone traveling on their own terms.

Editorial scores, 1 to 10, against the same written anchors for every city. Half points allowed. The overall is the plain average of the six.

Overview and Things to Consider

Hurghada started as a fishing village of Ababda families around a natural harbor and is now the capital of the Red Sea Governorate, home to 214,247 people in 2023 and stretched along close to 40 kilometers of coast. It comes in three parts. El Dahar, in the north, is the oldest and most Egyptian quarter, with the bazaars and the long-distance bus stations. Sakala (also spelled Sigala), four kilometers south, is the downtown strip along Sheraton Road and the marina. South of that, Village Road runs on through hotel after hotel toward Sahl Hasheesh and Makadi Bay. Wikivoyage's description of the shoreline, miles and miles of concrete with much of it abandoned, is fair.

You'll like Hurghada if the Red Sea is the point of your trip and you want it cheap. Dive shops are everywhere, the water is warm in January, and the airport handled more than 9.6 million passengers in 2024, so getting here from Europe is easy. You'll hate it if you want a walkable beach town. The coral reefs sit several miles offshore, unlike in Sinai, so you'll be on a boat for anything worth seeing underwater, and Wikivoyage couldn't find a single free public beach in town. As for sights on land, the same guide says there aren't many except the sea, and it's right.

The 2026 moment is about money and boats. Egypt let the pound float in March 2024, and on October 3, 2026 a dollar bought EGP 52.27, against about 16 in the years from 2018 to 2021. That makes Hurghada one of the cheapest warm-water bases you can fly to from Europe. The other half of the story is less comfortable. In November 2024 the dive boat Sea Story sank on a trip that was due to end in Hurghada, and in March 2025 a tourist submarine went down about a kilometer off the harbor. Choosing an operator now matters more than choosing a hotel.

Some of what the excursion desks sell is overrated. The Grand Aquarium charges adults $35, about what a full snorkeling day on the real reef costs with one of the independent dive centers. The submarine and glass-bottom boat rides look worse after 2025. And a one-day Luxor run means two long road legs and very little time at Karnak.

How Hurghada Got Here

The coast was busy long before the hotels. About 20 kilometers north of today's city, Roman troops of the Ala Nova Maximiana built a fort at Abu Sha'ar between 309 and 311, and around 400 a Christian community turned it into a church. Its ruins now sit inside El Gouna. Modern Hurghada began in the late 19th century, when Ababda fishermen settled the harbor at Sakala. The town was officially established in 1905, and Anglo-Egyptian Oilfields struck oil nearby in 1913. King Farouk built a recreation center here, which the army took over after Nasser's nationalizations. In January 1970, during the War of Attrition, Israeli troops seized Shadwan Island offshore for 36 hours.

Tourism came with Egyptian and foreign investment in the 1980s, and El Gouna, a private resort town that Samih Sawiris's Orascom Development started in 1990, followed to the north. Attacks have hit the resort trade several times. In 2017 a man who said he only wanted to kill foreigners stabbed seven women at two beach hotels, killing two Germans and a Czech. The other big shift was Russian. In 2015 there were around 20,000 Russians living here, Russia opened a consulate in 2017, and charter flights from Russia to the resorts, banned after the Metrojet bombing in November 2015, restarted in August 2021. That's why so many menus come in Cyrillic.

Getting There and Around

Hurghada International Airport (HRG) sits about 5 kilometers southwest of El Dahar. It's Egypt's second-busiest airport after Cairo. Most flights are European charters and low-cost carriers such as easyJet and TUI, and Wizz Air flies in from Rome and Bratislava. Egyptair, Air Cairo and Nile Air fly the hour to Cairo. No bus or microbus leaves from the terminal. Your options are Uber or Careem, a haggled taxi, a pre-booked transfer, or a 1.3-kilometer walk with almost no shade out to the highway, where you can flag a microbus.

Entry is simple for US, UK, Canadian, Australian and EU passports. The cleanest route is a tourist e-visa from the official Egypt e-Visa portal, $30 for a single entry or $65 for multiple entries, printed and carried with you. Otherwise you can buy a 30-day visa on arrival at the airport kiosk for the same $30, cash only, according to the UK Foreign Office. Your passport needs six months of validity and a blank page. The free Sinai-only entry stamp you may have read about applies only to arrivals at Sharm el-Sheikh airport, so it does nothing for you here.

Around town you'll mostly use the white Toyota Hiace microbuses that run fixed routes along the coastal strip and stop wherever you wave. Wikivoyage last logged a flat fare of LE2 to LE3 in December 2022, and Livingcost's June 2026 data puts a local transport ticket at about 17 cents, still close to nothing. Uber and Careem both work and save most of the arguing, though drivers sometimes try to renegotiate once you're in the car. With a street taxi, agree the total price for the car before you get in, don't expect a meter.

Long-distance buses leave from separate company stations, most of them in El Dahar. Go Bus, Super Jet and High Jet run to Cairo in six to seven hours, every hour or two, for LE380 to LE750 as of January 2026. Go Bus also runs two buses a day to Luxor, at 8:15am and 3:30pm, in four to five hours, and Upper Egypt Bus Co. covers Safaga, Luxor and Aswan. The old ferry to Sharm el-Sheikh was suspended in 2010 and hasn't come back, so to reach Sinai you fly.

What's Changed Since 2016

The airport grew first. The new terminal opened on December 17, 2014, built for up to 13 million passengers a year at a cost of $335 million, and by 2024 it was handling 9,636,689. The Hurghada Grand Aquarium opened in January 2015, and in August 2021 charter flights from Russia came back after a six-year ban that followed the Metrojet crash in November 2015. Put those together and you get today's Hurghada, busier than a decade ago and full of Russian charters again.

The currency has moved more than anything else. The pound was held near 16 to the dollar from 2018 to 2021, fell about 40 percent in 2022, and was floated by the Central Bank on March 6, 2024. By October 3, 2026 a dollar bought EGP 52.27. For visitors, that's why a dorm bed costs $9 and a cheap restaurant lunch about $3.34. For Egyptians, it came with inflation that hit a record 36.5 percent in July 2023, led by food, so don't be surprised when prices quoted to foreigners keep moving.

The sea has had a bad few years. On June 8, 2023 a tiger shark killed a 23-year-old Russian man off Hurghada, the third fatal tiger shark attack in the area since 2022. On November 25, 2024 the dive yacht Sea Story capsized on a week-long trip from Port Ghalib that was due to end in Hurghada, and by May 2025 eleven people were counted dead. On March 27, 2025 a Sindbad Submarines vessel sank about a kilometer off Hurghada harbor, killing six. A March 2024 Maritime Survey International report found none of the Red Sea boats it examined had a planned maintenance system.

The reasons to leave the coast got stronger. The Grand Egyptian Museum at Giza officially opened on November 1, 2025, after more than a decade of delays, which turns a Cairo stop into a better trip than it was. Closer in, the El Gouna Film Festival returned with a full lineup in 2024 after a cancelled 2022 and a postponed 2023, and its ninth edition runs October 15 to 23, 2026. Entry costs nudged up as well. The UK Foreign Office and the official e-visa portal both now charge $30, while plenty of older guides still say $25, and since August 1, 2026 Cairo airport also sells a $36 digital visa on arrival by card.

What the Usual Advice Gets Wrong

"The visa on arrival costs $25 and they'll take any currency at the counter." Wikivoyage's Egypt page still says $25 and that most currencies are accepted, but the UK Foreign Office quotes $30, cash only, at the kiosks before immigration. The official e-visa portal charges the same $30 for a single entry, so buying ahead saves you the queue, not money.

"A taxi from Hurghada airport into town costs EGP 20 to 30." That figure still sits on the hurghada-airport.com information site, and it's years out of date. Livingcost's June 2026 data puts a local 8-kilometer taxi ride at about $2.56 (around EGP 134) for residents, and airport taxis charge more because drivers pay to enter and wait. Wikivoyage calls airport fares high for the distance. Use Uber or Careem, or pre-arrange a transfer, such as Subex's at 15 CHF for one person or 10 CHF each for two.

"Luxor is an easy day trip from Hurghada." It's four to five hours each way by road, and Wikivoyage calls the day trip a bit mad, most of a 20-hour day. The cheapest tours spend part of that day at a souvenir shop. Give it a night instead, take the 8:15am Go Bus, and budget EGP 600 for Karnak and EGP 750 for the Valley of the Kings.

"Hurghada is a beach destination where you can snorkel off the sand." The good coral around Hurghada sits several miles offshore, unlike in Sinai, so snorkeling and diving mean a boat. Beaches in town charge for entry, and hotel beaches vary a lot. If you want reef from the shore, look at Marsa Alam, about 275 kilometers south, or Sinai.

"Any boat or dive trip will do, so just take the cheapest." The UK Foreign Office says Red Sea diving operators and boats vary considerably in safety standards, and the 2024 Sea Story sinking and 2025 submarine disaster showed what that means. Ask who owns the boat and how old it is, and skip any operator that can't answer.

"The perfume shop's free tea is just hospitality." Wikivoyage's warning is that once you accept the drink, you're expected to buy. The oils are rarely natural. If you shop in the bazaars, plan to haggle hard, since opening prices can come down by as much as 75 percent, and El Dahar's bazaars start cheaper than Sakala's.

Ideas to Consider for Your Visit

Have you thought about learning the reefs by name instead of booking the hotel's dive desk? Giftun, Abu Ramada and the Fanadir reefs are the standard Hurghada sites, and HEPCA, the local conservation group founded in 1992, has fitted 922 mooring buoys across 168 dive sites so boats don't drop anchor on the coral. The Red Sea Diving Academy lists two boat dives for €85 and a snorkeling day for €35. Wikivoyage reports two-dive trips at budget hotels for about €50 and up to US$65 at the posher ones, so ask around before you book. Certified divers can ride the long day out to the Thistlegorm, a British cargo ship sunk by German bombers in 1941 with a cargo that included Bedford trucks, for €230.

Spend an evening in El Dahar, the part of Hurghada that predates the hotels. The bazaars here start cheaper than in Sakala, the Go Bus and Upper Egypt Bus stations are close by, and the food is Egyptian rather than international buffet. Look for koshari, the macaroni, lentil, rice and chickpea dish with tomato sauce and fried onions, along with falafel sandwiches, shawarma and grills. Finish with karkaday, the hibiscus drink, or a glass of sahlab, a hot milk pudding thickened with orchid-root starch, at a sheesha café.

The Hurghada Museum is the first antiquities museum in the Red Sea Governorate and holds 2,000 objects, from pharaonic to Islamic and modern, chosen around the theme of beauty in Egypt. Foreign adults pay EGP 300, and the timing is unusual. It opens from 10am to 1pm and again from 5pm to 11pm, so you can dive in the morning and see the collection after dark.

El Gouna, 20 to 25 kilometers north, is a private town of lagoons and islands with three marinas, and it's worth a half day even if you'd never sleep there. West of the resort, Desert Breath, a land-art spiral of 89 cones and pits completed in 1997 by the D.A.ST. Arteam, three Greek artists including Danae Stratou, is slowly eroding back into the desert. The Roman fort at Abu Sha'ar is in the resort's southeastern corner. Buses from Hurghada take about 30 minutes, and in October the El Gouna Film Festival fills the town, this year from October 15 to 23.

Do Luxor as an overnight. Take the 8:15am Go Bus, arrive by early afternoon, and spend the late light at Karnak, which charges foreign adults EGP 600 and is open 6am to 5pm. Cross to the West Bank the next morning for the Valley of the Kings at EGP 750, and come back on the afternoon bus or keep going south toward Aswan. Two days and EGP 1,350 in tickets (about $26) gets you far more than a 20-hour tour does.

If you dive, Safaga, 50 kilometers south, has the Red Sea's most sobering wreck. The Salem Express, a ferry carrying pilgrims home from Mecca, hit a reef on December 14, 1991, and the official toll was 470, though the real number may have been far higher. Divers treat it as a grave. The Red Sea Diving Academy lists a two-dive day there for €130. Kitesurfers, meanwhile, have a run of kite stations along the hotel coast, some on shallow lagoons, and late March can be windy enough to bring them out.

The Part Most Guides Miss

The best thing about Hurghada is the winter sea. Most people think of the Red Sea as a summer trip, but in January the water here averages 23.1°C and rarely drops below about 21°C, while daytime highs sit at 72°F (22°C) and the whole month averages 0.03 inches of rain. That's swimming and diving weather in the middle of the northern winter, at a time when the boats are less crowded than at Christmas and New Year. Bring a thicker wetsuit and a fleece for the boat ride home, because the evenings get cool and the Shamal wind can make the deck feel cold.

Where to Base Yourself

El Dahar. For budget travelers and anyone who wants the town rather than the resort. Rooms and bazaars are cheapest here, the bus stations are walkable and the food is local. The catch is that there's no real beach and few tourist facilities, so plan on paying for a beach day, and expect touts around the bazaar.

Sakala and the Marina. The most practical base if diving is the plan. Many boat and dive operators leave from the marina, Sheraton Road has the restaurants and the most going on at night, and El Mina Mosque sits by the marina. The trade-off is noise and the constant offers of taxis, boat trips and perfume.

Village Road, Sahl Hasheesh and Makadi Bay. Where the big hotels and all-inclusive blocks sit, with their own beaches. Good for a week of doing very little. Makadi Bay, about 30 kilometers south, has no local settlement at all, only hotels, shops and clubs, so every trip into town is a taxi negotiation, and you'll eat most meals in the buffet.

El Gouna. A self-contained private town 20 to 25 kilometers north, with lagoons, three marinas, an 18-hole golf course and hotel shuttle buses that run until about 2am. It's clean, quiet and easy, and that's the problem. It feels like nowhere else in Egypt, and getting to El Dahar or Luxor takes extra time.

Realities to Be Aware Of

Budgets go a long way. A budget day built from current listings, a $9 dorm bed, two cheap local meals at about $3.34 each and microbuses, comes to roughly $20 to $30 before any boat trip. Mid-range, with a simple hotel, a $27.50 dinner for two and a €35 snorkeling day, runs about $70 to $120 per person. Add two boat dives at €85, gear rental at €35 a day and a resort room, and a comfortable diving day passes $200. Locals tip little at restaurants, but people working in tourism rely on small tips, and toilet attendants expect one.

Safety advice for Hurghada comes in layers. Canada asks its citizens to exercise a high degree of caution in Egypt, naming Red Sea resorts including Hurghada and El Gouna because of sporadic attacks on tourists. The UK Foreign Office notes that most reported sexual assaults in Egypt have taken place in Red Sea tourist resorts, often by someone the victim had already met. On the water, shark attacks are rare but real, and boat standards vary. On land, the risk is mostly touts, inflated tourist prices and fare disputes.

Stomach trouble is common. Wikivoyage blames heat combined with poor food hygiene. In 2018, two British guests died after illness complaints at the Steigenberger Aqua Magic, and Thomas Cook pulled its customers from the hotel. Eat food that's hot and freshly cooked. For care, Hurghada Clinic has English- and Polish-speaking doctors, and El Gouna Hospital has staff who speak English, French, Russian and German.

Drinking is legal only in licensed bars, restaurants, private homes and certain resorts, which in Hurghada covers most hotels and the marina bars. Same-sex couples showing affection in public are likely to get negative attention, and Canada warns that Egyptian police have used dating apps to make arrests, so LGBTQ+ travelers should be careful. Ramadan is expected to begin around February 7, 2027, according to Canada's advisory, and sites switch to Ramadan hours for the month.

What things cost in Hurghada

Prices checked October 2026. Each links to where we read it.

ItemPriceSource
Hostel dorm bedUS$7-12 (about EGP 365-630) a night across most listingsHostelworld Hurghada listings, Oct 2026
Lunch menu at an inexpensive restaurantAbout $3.34 (EGP 175)Livingcost Hurghada, updated June 21, 2026
Dinner for two at a restaurantAbout $27.50 (EGP 1,440)Livingcost Hurghada, updated June 21, 2026
Two boat dives for a certified diver€85, plus €35 a day for gear rentalRed Sea Diving Academy 2025 price list, read Oct 2026
Snorkeling day trip€35 per adult, €20 for children 4 to 10Red Sea Diving Academy 2025 price list, read Oct 2026
Hurghada Museum, foreign adultEGP 300 (about $5.75), students EGP 150Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, Oct 2026
Valley of the Kings, Luxor, foreign adultEGP 750 (about $14.35); Karnak is EGP 600Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities, Oct 2026
Hurghada Grand Aquarium, adult$35 (about EGP 1,830), children 4 to 10 $17.50Hurghada Grand Aquarium booking page, Oct 2026
Tourist e-visa, single entry$30 (about EGP 1,570); multiple entry $65Egypt e-Visa portal, Oct 2026

Conversions use Xe's mid-market rate of US$1 = EGP 52.27 on October 3, 2026. Dive centers price in euros or Swiss francs.

If Hurghada Is Part of a Longer Trip

Hurghada works best as the beach end of a Nile Valley loop. Luxor is four to five hours by Go Bus, Aswan is eight or more on the Upper Egypt Bus Co. service, and Cairo is six to seven hours by road or an hour by air, with the Grand Egyptian Museum now open at Giza. If you're also heading to Sharm el-Sheikh and Sinai, fly, since the ferry across the Gulf of Suez stopped in 2010. A sensible order is Cairo, then Luxor and Aswan, then a bus over the mountains to Hurghada to wash off the dust before flying home from HRG.

For bigger routes, think open-jaw. Luxor (LXR) has direct flights to several European cities and to Istanbul's Sabiha Gökçen, and Hurghada has flights from Europe, the Gulf and further east, so you can fly into one and out of the other without backtracking. Add Istanbul or Dubai on either side, and AirTreks builds exactly this kind of multi-stop ticket. Overland, a fast ferry runs from Safaga to Duba in Saudi Arabia and you'll need your Saudi visa sorted well in advance if you're aiming for Jeddah. For Petra, the usual route runs across Sinai to the ferries from Nuweiba or Taba Heights to Aqaba, and the UK Foreign Office says to carry US dollars in cash for fees on the way back in.

Yearly Things to Consider

Two groups set Hurghada's calendar. Europeans come for winter sun, with Christmas and New Year the peak, and Egyptians from Cairo, the Delta and Upper Egypt come for holidays and summer breaks. The weather barely varies in one way, since the NOAA normals put yearly rainfall at well under half an inch, and swings a lot in another, from 72°F (22°C) January highs to 99°F and 100°F (37°C and 38°C) in July and August. The sea follows behind the air, coolest in February and March at about 22°C and warmest in August at about 29°C.

The months most people skip are the ones to aim for. Late October and November keep air highs at 82°F to 90°F (28°C to 32°C) with the sea still around 26°C to 27°C, before the holiday charters arrive, and mid-October brings the El Gouna Film Festival. February is cool on deck but quiet. Be aware that Ramadan starts around February 7, 2027 and runs for a month, when sites keep shorter hours, such as the Hurghada Museum's 10am to noon and 8pm to 11pm.

Hurghada month by month

MonthTempRainfallSeasonNotes
January72°F (22°C)0.03 inHighWinter sun peak after New Year. Sea about 23°C, cool nights, bring a fleece.
February74°F (24°C)0.02 inShoulderCoolest sea of the year, about 22°C. Quiet boats; thick wetsuit.
March79°F (26°C)0.04 inShoulderCan be windy late in the month, good for kitesurfing. Ramadan runs into early March in 2027.
April86°F (30°C)0 inShoulderWarm days and a 23°C sea. Highs near 86°F (30°C).
May93°F (34°C)0 inShoulderHeat building. Sea about 25°C. Do Luxor before the summer.
June97°F (36°C)0 inLowHot and dry. Sea about 27°C; dive early, rest at midday.
July99°F (37°C)0 inLowHottest air, sea about 28°C. Egyptian holidaymakers on the beaches.
August100°F (38°C)0 inLowWarmest sea, about 29°C. Luxor's heat makes the trip inland punishing.
September96°F (35°C)0 inShoulderStill very hot, sea about 28°C. Highs near 96°F (35°C).
October90°F (32°C)0.09 inShoulderEl Gouna Film Festival, October 15 to 23 in 2026. Sea about 27°C.
November82°F (28°C)0.09 inShoulderOne of the best months. Sea about 26°C, before the holiday charters.
December75°F (24°C)0.02 inHighChristmas and New Year peak. Sea about 25°C, cool evenings.

Ideas for Itineraries

3 Days in Hurghada

Arrive, get to Sakala by Uber or a pre-arranged transfer, and walk the marina and Sheraton Road at sunset, then head north for dinner in El Dahar, koshari or grills and a karkaday at a sheesha café. Spend the second day on the water, with a snorkel or two-dive boat trip to Giftun or the Fanadir reefs, booked with an independent operator you've checked out. On the third day, take the microbus or a short ride to the Hurghada Museum's evening session, and use the afternoon for a half day in El Gouna, Desert Breath and the lagoons.

5 Days in Hurghada

Do the three-day plan, then add an overnight in Luxor. Catch the 8:15am Go Bus, arrive in time to see Karnak in the late light, sleep on the East Bank, and spend the next morning in the Valley of the Kings before taking the afternoon bus back to the coast. That's EGP 1,350 in tickets and two long, hot bus rides, so in May through September leave as early as you can and carry plenty of water.

1 Week in Hurghada

A diver's week. Give four days to the reefs and wrecks, starting easy at Giftun and El Mina and building to a long day at Abu Nuhas (€220) or the Thistlegorm (€230) if you're certified to 30 meters. Keep a full day free before you fly home, since you shouldn't fly within a day of diving. Use that day and one more for Luxor overnight, and spend your evenings between the marina and El Dahar so you see both halves of the city.

2 Weeks or More in Hurghada

Two weeks lets you settle in El Dahar or Sakala, where Livingcost's June 2026 data puts a one-bedroom apartment in the center at about $161 a month, and rent by the week through a local agent or guesthouse. Mix diving days with rest days. Go south for a day with turtles and dugongs at Marsa Alam (€145 for two dives), dive the Salem Express from Safaga, and spend three nights in the Nile Valley, Luxor and then Aswan, before coming back over the mountains to finish on the coast.

Sources

What this guide is built on. Every page below was read for this guide; prices and rules were checked in October 2026.

Hurghada Travel FAQ

Sharm's reefs run close to shore, so you can snorkel from the beach, and Ras Muhammad National Park is right there. Hurghada's reefs sit several miles out, so everything starts with a boat, but Hurghada is cheaper and closer to Luxor. Arriving by air at Sharm also gets you a free stamp for stays of up to 15 days in the Sinai resorts, which Hurghada doesn't offer.

Yes, and travelers report that it's easier here than in Cairo or Luxor. Wikivoyage's Luxor entry rates the Hurghada passport office as the simplest place to get an extension. Bring the paperwork the Luxor office asks for, your passport, two photos and copies of the pages with your entry stamps, and expect to leave the passport for part of the day.

Egyptian mobile operators sell SIM cards with data in the arrivals area, and you'll need your passport to register. Test the card before you leave the counter, because queues and package prices vary when several charters land at once. If your phone takes an eSIM, setting one up before you fly avoids the wait.

Dive centers sell dolphin days, with the Red Sea Diving Academy listing two dives with dolphins at €95 and adult snorkeling at €60. HEPCA runs a campaign called This Is Harassment against boats that chase and crowd wild dolphins, so pick an operator that keeps its distance and doesn't promise contact.

Pay most things in Egyptian pounds and keep small notes for microbuses, tips and toilet attendants. A trick from Wikivoyage is to withdraw odd amounts such as LE350 at a time, so the ATM gives you a LE100 and a LE50 note instead of only large ones. For haggled taxis, agree whether the price is in pounds, euros or dollars before you set off.

It has a 24-meter underwater tunnel with sharks, rays and reef fish, plus a rainforest section and mini zoo, and it's open 9am to 8pm with last entry at 6pm. At $35 for an adult, though, it costs about as much as a snorkeling day on the real reef. It's worth it for young children or on a windy day when the boats don't go out.