Updated · On BootsnAll since 2004 · History
Overview and Things to Consider
Franz Josef is a small town on New Zealand's West Coast, about 5-6 hours' drive from Christchurch and roughly the same from Queenstown. The glacier is the whole reason to come - a massive sheet of ice descending from the Southern Alps. The town exists to serve glacier visitors and still has a frontier feel.
The glacier has retreated significantly since the early 2000s because of climate change, and the retreat has kept going from 2020 to 2026. It's still massive and impressive, and walking on it is a highlight for most visitors. You're not wasting your time - you're seeing it as it is now.
Most travelers spend 2-3 days in Franz Josef, either on a West Coast loop or as a detour. The surrounding region is great for hiking, so stay for more than a glacier tour if you can.
Getting There and Around
Franz Josef has no commercial airport. You drive in from Christchurch (via highways 73 and 6, a scenic route), from Queenstown (the scenic route through Wanaka), or from Fox Glacier about 25km south. The drive is spectacular: rainforest, mountains and the dramatic West Coast.
Buses connect to nearby towns, but a rental car helps if you want to explore on your own. West Coast roads are curvy and slow but beautiful - don't underestimate drive times.
The town itself is walkable. Glacier tours are the main event. Various operators run them, from a few hours to a full day, including walking on the ice (helicopter tours if you have the budget).
What's Changed Since 2016
The glacier has retreated dramatically. In 2016, you could walk to the glacier edge without specialized gear. By 2026, most visitors book guided glacier tours to walk on the ice itself - just walking to the terminus is no longer the experience it was.
Accommodation has expanded and improved, with better mid-range options between backpacker hostels and expensive lodges. The town is more developed but keeps its frontier character.
Glacier tours have changed. Some operators closed, and others moved to premium options like private guides and helicopter access. Quality is generally better, and prices are higher.
Ideas to Consider for Your Visit
Book a glacier tour as soon as you arrive. They're popular and fill up, and if you wait too long you'll miss out. Walking on the ice is what you came for, and it's worth it despite the climate reality.
Spend time on the trails around the glacier. The Valley Walk and Lake Walk are easy to reach, scenic and free, and give you a feel for the glacier without a guide.
If you have the time and budget, take a helicopter tour over the glacier and surrounding peaks. They cost NZD 300+ per person, but the views are spectacular, and for some people it's the defining experience of their South Island trip.
Visit Fox Glacier nearby if you have time - it's similar but a little less visited, and seeing both gives you a sense of the glaciers' size and the region's significance.
The West Coast drive is part of the trip. Pull over often and walk into the rainforest - this is one of New Zealand's most scenic regions.
Realities to Be Aware Of
The West Coast is wet. Franz Josef gets about 5 meters of rain a year, making it one of the wettest places in New Zealand. Expect rain, sometimes constant, sometimes drizzle, and don't count on sunny skies.
Weather can cancel glacier tours. It's frustrating, and it happens. If your timing is flexible, build in an extra day.
West Coast sandflies are vicious. Bring or buy good repellent and wear it religiously. This is not optional.
Accommodation is limited and books up fast in peak season. Plan ahead or expect fewer options and higher prices.
The town is small and fairly isolated, and the few restaurants can be pricey. Plan to eat at your accommodation or bring snacks.
If Franz Josef Is Part of a Longer Trip
Most itineraries include Franz Josef on a West Coast loop. The classic route is Christchurch - West Coast (Franz Josef and Fox Glacier) - Wanaka - Queenstown, a 1-2 week itinerary that covers a lot of ground.
Some travelers take a southern route instead: Christchurch to Milford Sound (Queenstown area), then west to the glaciers. It means more driving but no backtracking.
Most South Island trips that include Franz Josef allocate 2-3 days minimum. Less than that and you'll feel rushed.
Yearly Things to Consider
Rain and mist dominate Franz Josef's climate, and the West Coast is one of the wettest regions in New Zealand. Winter is cold and very wet. Summer is warmer but still wet.
Clear days on the West Coast are worth celebrating. When you get one, the views are spectacular.
Monthly Climate and Conditions
January - Summer, warmest month, still wet, 13-19C (55-66F). Glacier tours generally operating. High clouds and mist are common.
February - Still warm and very wet, 13-18C (55-64F). Occasional clear days but mostly overcast and rainy.
March - Autumn, wet and cool, 12-17C (54-63F). Rainfall increases. Glacier conditions usually good.
April - Late autumn, cold and very wet, 10-15C (50-59F). Frequent rain and mist.
May - Late autumn, cold and damp, 8-13C (46-55F). Increasing rainfall. Tours can be weather-affected.
June - Winter, cold and extremely wet, 6-11C (43-52F). Shortest days, most gloomy.
July - Peak winter, coldest month, very wet, 5-10C (41-50F). Snow possible on surrounding peaks.
August - Late winter, starting to warm slightly, still very wet, 6-12C (43-54F).
September - Spring, warming trend, wet, 8-14C (46-57F). Occasional clearer days.
October - Spring, warm and very wet, 10-17C (50-63F). Rain is almost constant.
November - Late spring, warm and wet, 11-18C (52-64F). Tourist season begins.
December - Summer, warmest but extremely wet, 13-19C (55-66F). Peak crowds and high rainfall.
Ideas for Itineraries
3 Days in Franz Josef
Three days at Franz Josef is the right amount if you want more than just a glacier photo. Arrive on day one, book your glacier tour immediately (they fill up), and do the Valley Walk to get your bearings. Day two is the glacier tour - walking on the ice is the point of being here, so give it the full day. Day three: the Lake Walk, the drive to Fox Glacier 25km south, and a leisurely departure or drive onward.
5 Days in Franz Josef
Five days gives you more options: 1-2 days on glacier tours (maybe including a helicopter tour), 1-2 days hiking (Valley Walk, Lake Walk, Chalet Walk) and 1-2 days on the wider West Coast, including Fox Glacier. You could also do a full-day glacier tour and a helicopter tour on separate days.
1 Week in Franz Josef
A week is generous for Franz Josef alone. Give 2-3 days to the glacier and 2-3 days to longer hikes and the wider region, maybe including a day trip south to Haast and the Lake Hawea area. If weather cancels a tour, the extra time isn't wasted.
2 Weeks or More in Franz Josef
At two weeks, you're exploring the West Coast, not just Franz Josef. Base yourself here and take long day trips: Haast, Lake Hawea, further south to the Milford Sound area, or north to Hokitika and the gold mining regions. If you're equipped, you can do serious multi-day hikes. The West Coast reveals itself slowly, so the time pays off.
From the BootsnAll archive
1 story or article about Franz Josef, 2009
- Into the West - Franz Josef Glacier, New Zealand
Article · 2009 · Jane Ferguson
Franz Josef Travel FAQ
Yes. The glacier has retreated significantly, but it's still enormous and impressive, and walking on the ice is a unique experience. You're not wasting your time - you're seeing one of New Zealand's natural wonders in the middle of a real environmental transformation.
The ice can no longer be reached on foot, so guided glacier walks now start with a helicopter flight. A heli hike costs NZD 899 per person in 2026 (up to four hours, with up to 2.5 of them on the ice). Scenic helicopter flights without the hike cost NZD 300+ per person. Multiple operators exist - compare prices and reviews before booking.
Tours are often cancelled because of West Coast weather. You can reschedule or get a refund. Build in an extra day if you can - if your tour runs, great, and if not, you can try again. Travel insurance that covers weather cancellations is worth considering.
Yes, especially in the December-February peak season. Hotels and good hostels fill fast. Book 1-2 weeks ahead. Last-minute options exist but are limited and more expensive.
West Coast sandflies are vicious, and they're most active at dawn and dusk. Wear quality repellent religiously when you're outdoors then, and cover up with long sleeves and pants. They're not dangerous, just maddening.
If you have time, yes. It's about 25km away, with similar glacier experiences and possibly fewer crowds. Seeing two glaciers gives you a sense of their scale. It works as a day trip or an overnight.
Update history (17)▸
· Rewrite
Edited for readability and the BootsnAll voice: generic phrasing cut in 33 passages, no facts changed
· Fact-check
Fact-checked against current sources: 1 correction
- Walk-on ground glacier tours at NZD 150-250 no longer exist. Since the terminal face collapsed in 2012, every trip onto the ice starts with a helicopter, and the Franz Josef Glacier Guides heli hike costs NZD 899. (source)
· Rewrite
Updated for modern frameworks, with content updates and changes
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
1 member blog post from 1 blogger
- 2016: 1 post from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
3 member blog posts from 2 bloggers
- 2010: 3 posts from 2 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
1 article, by Jane Ferguson, plus 3 member blog posts from 3 bloggers
· Contributors
4 member blog posts from 2 bloggers
- 2008: 4 posts from 2 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
16 member blog posts from 12 bloggers
- 2007: 16 posts from 12 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
18 member blog posts from 12 bloggers
- 2006: 18 posts from 12 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
6 member blog posts from 4 bloggers
- 2005: 6 posts from 4 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
7 member blog posts from 3 bloggers
- 2004: 7 posts from 3 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
Chris Heidrich, BootsnAll co-founder, has contributed to this guide since 1999, including dispatches from BootsnAll and AirTreks travelers
