An immensity of vegetation surrounded by magical mountains in the southwest corner of Germany, a gateway to Central European history and legends... the Black Forest is all of these things.
The Danube flows at its head and the Rhine babbles at its feet, all set in a natural splendor that is veined by 3000 km of trails that climb over jagged mountains and between majestic trees. This area forms one of the most beautiful landscapes on the Old Continent.
With sectors that can be followed on foot, by mountain bike, or in boats on its rivers and lakes, the Black Forest is a true paradise for outdoorsmen and women. Although excellent German routes also allow for the pleasure of exploring the Black Forest by car, a more picturesque choice would be to see it all by train, an option made simple with either a Eurailpass, or the special "Black Forest Ticket."
Cities and Clocks Beginning in the east of this area, the 200km long trail of spectacular scenery constituting "the Route of the Clocks" is highly recommended in order to discover more about this most German of traditions.
There are several museums that have recorded the history of clock making, an industry that still thrives here. Since the creation of the first wooden clock in the shape of a scale, made in 1667, this zone has seen various changes in the technology and fashion of timepieces, from the trumpet clock to square-faced and double-bell clocks, right up to modern quartz timepieces.
Resplendent with a landscape that recalls myths and legends, this area is dotted with impressive castles and forts. The Villigen is distinguished for its well-preserved state, and Kongísfeld is known as the little place with the "enchanted forest" that sheltered the philanthropist Alfred Schweitzer upon his return from Africa.
Arriving to Freiberg, numerous businesses selling enormous clocks border the route, indicating, without a doubt, that this is the birthplace of the famous cuckoo clock.
A natural highlight marks this area as well. The cascades of the Gutach River, which, tumbling 162m over seven steps, are the highest in all of Germany.
Houses The typical and traditional architecture of the Black Forest is a type of log-house construction, in which wooden beams are placed symmetrically, and are sometimes painted.
Fine examples of this technique are found in the city of Schiltach, at the end of the "Route of the Clocks." This antique centre of balsam wood constructions boasts a triangular central plaza, constructed in two tiers, and is in itself a work of art.
It is worth paying a visit to the pharmacy - museum in front of this, which has preserved its original scales, flasks and mortars over the past 150 years.
Freiburg In the centre-northern area, we begin to descend west to Freiburg. At this leg of the trip, the museum of diamonds and jewels in Pforzheim, the famous casino, the theatre and the ruins of the Roman baths in Baden-Baden are all sights that should be seen, and in the town of Rottweil, picturesque facades face the streets in a warm welcome to tourists who come for its Carnival.
Acting as the "Capital of the Black Forest," Freiburg (founded in 1120) is the city that enjoys more sun and warm weather than any other city in Germany.
With an urban epicentre flanked by two medieval entrances, it is also the site of many historical buildings, including a Cathedral that, with its 116m tall tower, is said to be "the most beautiful in Christianity."
Freiburg is also quite a cultured city, and has produced no less than nine Nobel Prize winners.
The tradition of Carnival The Black Forest and its "Alemanniesche Fasnet" are synonymous, and each February, each corner of the place celebrates in its unique way.
The common denominators are parades and processions, in which the majority of the population participates, wearing bright colours and outrageous make-up. The "narro" is the principal figure and his expensive disguise consists of a painted suit, a wooden mask, and heavy bells crossing his chest, which are rung by his twists and turns. Other typical characters extracted from the oldest of German myths are the witches and gnomes of the woods.
All of these wonderful costumes can be seen outside of Carnival season in the Carnival museums in Gengebach and Bad Dúrrheim. These two cities also offer much more: the former offers great wines, and the latter boasts thermal baths complete with saunas and solariums.
Old Customs In the heart of the Black Forest, felt hats are still the characteristic garb of this part of Germany. Tucked into the valley of the Gutach River, this region is perhaps the most representative of Black Forest tradition.
Here, in the "Vogtsbauernhol", the small village acts as an open-air museum, showing straw weavers and roof-shinglers in action. The nearby constructions of beehives, bread-making ovens, carpentry shops and stables also reflect the oldest roots of German culture.
By train, it is possible to continue southward through tunnels and past marvelous scenery before reaching Hornberg. This little town possesses a castle with an interesting history.
The Duke of Wutemberg was about to visit, and the authorities prepared to receive him with cannon fire to announce his arrival. An official was put in charge of giving the signal to shoot, and after giving various false alarms, several shots were wasted. When the Duke finally arrived, the soldiers had used all of their ammunition and were thus reduced to having to make the "boom" of cannon fire with their own voices. The Duke was so amused by this ridiculous attempt, he burst out laughing, even more so when the reasons behind it were explained.
This story has become part of the folklore of the region, and is acted out on the grounds of this very castle every summer.
Skiing in Winter In the nearby valley between Schonach and Schonwald, varied flora, wide plains and pronounced hills form the perfect scene for outdoor activities in winter. Lush with commodities and more than one hundred well-marked skiing trails (some illuminated at night), its attractions are impossible for sports buffs to resist.
The best place to alpine ski is in Feldberg, located 1493m above the Black Forest. The neighbouring lake of Schluchesee is more suited to summer activities like riding and mountain biking. Close by, Lake Titisse is popular for swimming and holds a musical festival and other forms of entertainment. To top it off, this region developed a program 25 years ago that is still very popular, which takes visitors through the area by horseback, while their luggage is taken ahead to the hotel, allowing for a day of riding without the burden of carrying extra weight.
The Danube The Furstenberg Castle (1772) is found in Donaueschingen, east of Feldberg, where the Brigach and Breg rivers meet and give birth to the Danube, Europe's longest river.
This witness to time's passing can be visited, with its delicate furniture and numerous art works, from April to November.
With old-growth trees and many creeks, this area is also home to one of the most visited sites in the Black Forest: the famous round fountain placed at the mouth of the Danube. This picturesque location, enveloped by rich vegetation, seems to symbolize the Germanic spirit of the Black Forest-a spirit made beautiful through its traditions, people and the mysteries of the woods.
Typical Cuisine In addition to its marvelous natural and cultural characteristics, the Black Forest also offers rich delicacies for the palate.
Its wild blueberry jams and smoked hams accompanied by warm pumpernickel are as famous as its game meats from the forest, like deer or boar with Spátzile. Tiny gnocchi from the zone are wonderful when served with fresh trout caught from the creek behind the restaurant that serves it, poached with parsley or pan fried with almonds and butter.
For dessert, a typical "Black Forest cake" with cherries, chocolate, a touch of alcohol and loaded with cream is a must. At the end of it all, nibbling on a few cherries and plums is recommended to aid digestion.