Day 38: 4 September 2002 10:00 pm
Tom and Penny confess to their tour leader that they are leaving the truck in Mzuzu, causing our tour leader to wail, 'What am I doing wrong?'
This morning we were given the option of going on the hike to Livingstonia - we declined and started planning our route through Malawi to Zimbabwe.
Tom broke the news gently to our beleaguered tour leader that we were leaving the truck tomorrow. It had been quite a shock to lose Natasha and Jason although we were told that Natasha had severe psychological problems - I had never seen any evidence of this and I wasn't sure if our tour leader wasn't just being plain bitchy. We explained that it was not due to the group (Aussie vets excluded) and was in no way a reflection on how the tour had been run - it was just a case of feeling comfortable enough to travel on our own and having the flexibility to decide where and how long to stay at any given place.
Before we told our tour leader, I had a quick word with some independent travellers that were camping next to us. They said Malawi was perfectly safe to travel round and we should visit Zomba and Blantyre.
Our tour leader kindly agreed to transport our souvenirs to Harare where we can pick them up and return the remainder of our kitty money. We were also offered updates by email on the situation in Zimbabwe and other pieces of useful information about Gweru. This was generous and we were grateful for the extra help extended to us by our tour leader.
When the others returned from their hike, our tour leader broke the news to them. Beth wasn't surprised we were going to take off on our own but others were. Belinda agreed that at times the trip is a chore and restrictive. Rose confided that there is not enough free time in the itinerary and hated erecting the tent in the dark. However, Rose pursed her lips in disdain as she obviously did not agree with us receiving the rest of the kitty money.
Poor Beth - I will be sorry to leave her behind. I feel that she is having a tough time at the moment, yet she is so easy going and good-natured. This morning she deliberately didn't go on the hike so that she could avoid Roberta (who spends most of her time stoned). On the truck they barely speak to each other and sit apart. Beth was venting her frustration with Roberta at breakfast saying that she was inconsiderate, dogmatic, arrogant and never kept her highly controversial opinions to herself even when they were likely to offend. You could see that she had been bottling up her feelings as they now flooded out. Beth is cutting her trip short and leaving in Victoria Falls to catch a bus to Jo'berg to fly home.
We accompanied Beth on a shopping expedition to buy Malawi chairs, hoping that our combined buying power would secure a good deal. Beth is the queen of souvenir shoppers - if we thought we were bad at buying souvenirs, Beth is ten times worse - she cannot resist buying trinkets and carvings. She is also excellent at bargaining and after a tortuous haggle, together we bought three Malawi chairs and a salad bowl. Our Malawi chieftain chair decorated with the 'big five' cost us US $20 including wrapping. Beth had convinced herself that she needed a pair of chairs but we agreed to tell the group that she had only bought one chair.
We have discovered on this trip that people tend to have a love affair with one continent and for us that is Asia not Africa, which may explain why we already feel that we have seen enough National Parks and game to last a lifetime. I wouldn't be adverse to returning to Africa when we are middle aged and treating ourselves to a luxury safari in lodges.
Our last dinner with the truck and we listened to an outline of what would be happening at Kande Beach, relieved that we were leaving. Our tour leader said that there had been an overspend on the budget due to the 'big seafood nights' at Dar Es Salaam, so the group would have to consider buying their own lunches at Kande Beach and having the village meal one evening - you could tell that no one was excited at this prospect. Roberta pointed out that at the last village meal it was the only time that there was any food left over.
Roberta was obnoxious and rude, especially to Beth at dinner - it didn't help that she was stoned and I think Beth might genuinely miss us when we go. I hope Beth doesn't have to put up with too much more grief from Roberta.
Positives: Freedom nearly in our grasp - no more Big Brother!
Negatives: Breaking the news to our tour leader.