Updated · On BootsnAll since 2002 · History
Overview and Things to Consider
St. Louis sits on the Mississippi River, and its identity is tied to westward expansion. You see that history in the Gateway Arch, the preserved 19th-century neighborhoods and the waterfront. The city has lost population since its industrial heyday, but what's left is interesting. Urban neighborhoods are affordable, cultural institutions are excellent, and the city doesn't try to be somewhere else.
Immigrant communities - Italian, German and others - shaped what you eat here, and the food culture is distinct because of it. Jazz and blues sit at the center of the city's identity. You rarely hit overwhelming crowds, locals are friendly, and a day of exploring feels full without wearing you out.
Getting There and Around
St. Louis Lambert International Airport is about 14 miles northwest of downtown. Parking costs roughly $20 per day, and rideshare to downtown runs $15 - 25. Transit options are limited, though the MetroLink light rail does serve the airport.
Downtown near the Arch is walkable, especially around the waterfront. The neighborhoods visitors want - Soulard, the Central West End, Lafayette Square - are far enough apart that walking between them isn't practical, so you'll need a car or rideshare. MetroLink runs but covers little ground. Most visitors rent cars.
What's Changed Since 2016
Neighborhood revitalization here is slow but ongoing. Cherokee Antique Row and Maplewood have drawn artists and entrepreneurs. The food scene has improved, with more sophisticated restaurants arriving. Cardinal baseball still matters a lot to the city. Some neighborhoods have gentrified while others have declined further, so the city is uneven.
The music scene is still strong, though less celebrated nationally than it once was. The Arch is still the Arch. Population keeps falling, which means fewer crowds and cheaper housing and dining. The city's demographic problems are real and visible in some areas, but the core tourist areas keep getting more appealing.
Ideas to Consider for Your Visit
The Gateway Arch is worth seeing - the tram to the top takes 4 minutes and the views are excellent. The City Museum, in a former International Shoe building, is part museum, part playground, part art installation. Give it 2 - 3 hours.
Soulard is the historic neighborhood for Creole food and old taverns. Imo's Pizza is famous: some people love it, others think it's odd. Local staples are provel cheese-topped pizza, St. Louis-style ribs and gooey butter cake. The City Museum is odd too, and worth visiting anyway. Walk historic neighborhoods like Lafayette Square. The Missouri Botanical Garden is excellent and worth a few hours.
The music scene is real. BB's Jazz, Blues and Soups and Blueberry Hill are both good bets. The Saint Louis Science Center and Saint Louis Art Museum are excellent and free. If you're here in February, catch the Mardi Gras celebrations in Soulard. And walk the waterfront along the Mississippi.
Realities to Be Aware Of
St. Louis has real urban problems. Some neighborhoods aren't safe for tourists, especially at night, and downtown after dark calls for street awareness. Summer is hot and humid, and winter can bring snow and ice. Spring and fall are pleasant.
The city is less touristy than you'd expect, which can feel refreshing or disorienting. Tourist infrastructure is thinner than in more visited cities, and getting from the airport to downtown can be confusing without clear transit. Some areas feel abandoned, and downtown can feel dead at night. The appeal is in exploring on your own, not packaged tourist experiences.
If St. Louis Is Part of a Longer Trip
St. Louis works well as a stop on Midwest or South road trips. Memphis is about 4 hours south. Chicago is about 5 hours north. Kansas City is about 4 hours west. The Ozarks region is beautiful and about 2 hours south.
Amtrak connects St. Louis to Chicago and other regional cities. Plenty of travelers run a Chicago - St. Louis - Memphis - New Orleans circuit through the middle of the country. Plan 2 - 3 days here as part of a longer trip.
Yearly Things to Consider
Spring (April - May): Pleasant and mild. Good for walking neighborhoods and outdoor exploration. Festivals happen.
Summer (June - August): Hot and humid, often uncomfortable for extensive walking. The Cardinal baseball season is active. Outdoor events happen.
Fall (September - October): Excellent weather, and the leaves change a little. Great for exploring.
Winter (November - March): Cold with occasional snow. Mardi Gras in Soulard happens in February. Museums are good options for winter.
Ideas for Itineraries
Two Days in St. Louis
Day 1: Arrive and visit the Gateway Arch, walk the waterfront and explore downtown. Lunch and dinner in Soulard. Day 2: City Museum for 2 - 3 hours, then the Science Center or Art Museum. Spend the afternoon eating. This is a city you get through its history and culture more than its tourist attractions.
Three to Four Days in St. Louis
Follow the two-day plan. Add time at the Botanical Garden. Visit Lafayette Square. Spend an evening at a jazz venue. Explore multiple neighborhoods including Cherokee Antique Row and Maplewood. Eat through the food scene more systematically.
Five to Six Days: Deep St. Louis
Spend multiple days on neighborhoods and history. Drive to the Ozarks region. Visit more museums. Spend evenings at music venues, where the city's music culture lives. Eat your way through Soulard. See the Arch again at different times of day. Take a riverboat cruise on the Mississippi if you're interested.
One Week: Living in St. Louis
Take St. Louis neighborhood by neighborhood - Soulard, Central West End, Lafayette Square, Cherokee. Do a full day trip to the Ozarks. Visit every museum that interests you. Become a regular at a few restaurants and bars. Catch several music performances. Walk the waterfront more than once. See a Cardinal game if they're playing. Figure out what the people who live here find interesting about the place.
FAQ
Part museum, part playground, part art installation, housed in a former shoe building. Plan on 2 - 3 hours.
Gooey butter cake, St. Louis-style ribs, Imo's Pizza and Creole food in Soulard. The food culture here is its own thing.
Downtown and tourist neighborhoods are safe during the day. Use normal city precautions. Some neighborhoods aren't safe at night.
It's in downtown itself on the riverfront. Walking distance from most downtown attractions.
Downtown is walkable but neighborhoods are spread out. Rent a car to explore beyond downtown and visit places like the Botanical Garden.
Jazz and blues are central to the city's identity. BB's and Blueberry Hill have live music, and a night at one is part of getting to know St. Louis.
Update history (11)▸
· Rewrite
Edited for readability and the BootsnAll voice: generic phrasing cut in 21 passages, no facts changed
· Fact-check
Fact-checked against current sources: 1 correction
- The airport was renamed from Lambert-St. Louis International Airport to St. Louis Lambert International Airport, and it is 14 miles from downtown, not 10. (source)
· Rewrite
Updated for modern frameworks, with content updates and changes
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
1 member blog post from 1 blogger
- 2008: 1 post from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
1 member blog post from 1 blogger
- 2006: 1 post from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Archive
Covered in BootsnAll's round-the-world destination guides
Archived copy of /rtw/destinations/na/stlouis.shtml· Contributors
Chris Heidrich, BootsnAll co-founder, has contributed to this guide since 1999, including dispatches from BootsnAll and AirTreks travelers
