Suzanne Scala offers money-saving tips for travel in France.
Budget Travel in France
France
What are some of the first things you think of when you think of France? The rich and famous hobnobbing in Cannes, nibbling on fois gras? Priceless jewelry from Cartier? Old bottles of wine as valuable as a new Jaguar? It’s easy to forget that France also has a reputation as a destination for impoverished artists from all over the world, not to mention a long tradition of favoring the common people over the nobility. Just think of what happened to Marie Antoinette…
All this to say that a trip to France on a budget need not be an exercise in self-denial. In fact, some might even say that the impecunious traveler to France gets a chance to see places and have experiences not available to their wealthier counterparts. I like to think, only partly ironically, of a budget trip to France as a chance to slough off my material concerns in order to appreciate what’s really important in life.
While there are more specific guidelines below, the general idea is a mindset adjustment. Sure, Fauchon sells some of the best and most expensive chocolate in the world, but what is some chocolate compared to a free walk along the Seine at night? What’s a fancy meal at La Tour d’Argent compared with hiking through the Pyrenees? Spending scads of money is so bourgeois! Put on your starving artist beret and read on.
Practical Suggestions
Eat at the Counter
If you don’t mind standing, you can save about 15% on your bill if you eat at the counter of brasseries and cafés. The 15% represents the automatic tip added to your check for the services of a waiter or waitress.
Buy lunch at the market
Especially if the weather’s nice, nothing beats a baguette, cheese and wine from the local market consumed, say, in the gardens around the Eiffel Tower or along the Seine.
Rent an apartment instead of a hotel room
Many vacation apartments are available for rent in Paris and other cities. The primary advantage of these is that – in addition to providing a view of French life otherwise impossible for the tourist – they have kitchens. This enables you to cook a few lunches or dinners at your apartment and affords you the opportunity to shop at the many open-air markets around the city. A little searching on the Internet yields dozens of rental options, though my favorite hunting ground is the “small ads” section of the FUSAC (France USA Connections) web site. FUSAC is a resource for American expatriates in France and has a lively classifieds section.
Hostels
While you are unlikely to have a private room, hostels are a good lodging option for the budget traveler. Some even have kitchens, allowing you to save food money for that big splurge. Hostels sometimes have age restrictions, however, so it’s best to check if you suspect you’re over the youth hostel age.
Have a fancy lunch
For your obligatory fancy French meal, consider having lunch instead of dinner. Many fine restaurants offer comparative lunch bargains. The menu du jour (prix fixe menu) can save you even more.
Take advantage of free tourist attractions
France isn’t the starving artist’s paradise for nothing: the country affords innumerable opportunities for cultural edification and aesthetic delight. Browsing the bookstalls along the Seine is, of course, a perennial favorite. But climbing the stairs to Sacré Coeur in Paris, walking along a winding street in a small village or following the wall around Avignon are all beautiful and inexpensive ways to enjoy France.
If you’re going to Paris, try to arrive in time for La Fête de la Musique in late June. During the festival, almost every square in the city is transformed into an impromptu concert stage, with music for every taste. After the official festivities, you can always find an after-hours party along the river.
Free days at museums
Many of the museums in France have special days when they are open for free. Go to the museum or check their web site to see when, and if, they allow the unwashed masses in the door. The Louvre, for example, is free to everyone on the first Sunday of each month.
Take advantage train deals
The French railway system (SNCF) offers a truly dizzying array of discount packages. If you are under 26, you qualify for special youth fares. If you are traveling mid-week, you can also get a discount, as can those over 60. The SNCF also offers Eurorail type discount packages for multiple trips within France. One can’t help imagining the trifecta: a student under 26 traveling mid-week with his 61-year-old grandmother…
Check BootsnAll’s Eurail section for more information and to book tickets.
Camping
Get back to nature! Camping in France is a boon to the budget traveler as campsites tend to be well maintained and located in beautiful areas – not to mention inexpensive. There are many directories of French campsites on the Internet. A hint: many of these web sites use the word “naturist” for nudist.
Hiking
I think of hiking and other outdoor activities as a kind of rural museum visit. Hiking in France’s natural parks is inexpensive, if not free, and, of course, the countryside is breathtaking. To find hikes for all skill levels, check out the web site for the area you’re interested in. For example, this one has information on hiking in the Loire Valley.
The gorp.away.com web site has a good general introduction to hiking in France.
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