Updated · On BootsnAll since 2004 · History
Overview and Things to Consider
Iceland sits on the Mid-Atlantic Ridge, where the Eurasian and North American tectonic plates meet. The result is active volcanoes, geysers, hot springs, black sand beaches, glaciers and lava fields, a landscape that looks like a science fiction film set and is just geology doing what it does at that latitude. Geologically the country is young and still forming. Reykjavik, the capital, is home to two-thirds of the population, a small but real city with a strong music and arts culture.
Iceland suits travelers who want dramatic natural landscapes and can handle high costs and variable weather. It does not suit travelers expecting warm temperatures, cheap food, or uncrowded famous sites. The midnight sun in June-July creates extraordinary light. The Northern Lights season runs September through March, requiring clear skies and patience. The ring road (Route 1) circles the island in about 7-10 days of driving. The interior F-roads are only accessible July-September and require a 4WD vehicle.
Getting There and Around
Keflavík International Airport (KEF) is 50km from Reykjavik. Flybus and Reykjavík Excursions run coaches to the city (45 minutes). Icelandair and the budget carriers serve the airport from North America and Europe - Icelandair's transatlantic stopover program allows a free Iceland stopover on transatlantic flights, which is worth using if your routing allows it.
A rental car is effectively required for exploring beyond Reykjavik and the Golden Circle. Book well in advance for summer, when supply is genuinely limited. For F-roads and the highland interior, a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle is mandatory - the river crossings on some F-roads require actual off-road capability. Campervans are popular and well-suited to ring road trips; campsites are plentiful and marked on dedicated apps. Buses exist but are infrequent and better suited to one-way journeys.
What's Changed Since 2016
Visitor numbers tripled between 2010 and 2018, and while they dipped during COVID, they've returned to and exceeded pre-pandemic levels. The impact is most visible at the main Golden Circle sites (Þingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss) and the South Coast (Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Reynisfjara black sand beach), which have significant visitor management infrastructure including paid parking, timed queues, and fencing that didn't exist in 2015. The Blue Lagoon requires advance booking and is now priced firmly as a luxury experience (€70-100+).
Volcanic activity has increased. The Reykjanes Peninsula southwest of Reykjavik has been in a new eruptive phase since 2021, with multiple eruptions of the Fagradalsfjall and related volcanic systems. These have created a new draw - lava viewing, sometimes walkable distances from the Grindavík area - but also evacuated the town of Grindavík and disrupted access to the Blue Lagoon on multiple occasions. Check current volcanic status before planning a South Peninsula visit. [VERIFY: current Reykjanes volcanic activity status 2026]
Ideas to Consider for Your Visit
The Westfjords are the most dramatically underdeveloped part of Iceland for visitors - a remote region of deep fjords, red-earth cliffs, and almost no crowds. The drive from Reykjavik takes about 6 hours to reach Ísafjörður (the main town), road conditions can be extreme, and the logistics require planning. The payoff is Iceland that feels like it did 20 years ago and landscape that rivals anything on the ring road. The Látrabjarg bird cliffs (westernmost point of Europe, puffins in summer) are worth the journey alone.
The highland interior is only accessible July through September and requires a 4WD vehicle. The Landmannalaugar area has multi-colored rhyolite mountains and hot springs for bathing. The Þórsmörk valley is a hiker's destination at the end of the famous Laugavegur trail (55km, 4-5 days, hut-to-hut). The Kjölur route (Kjalvegur, F35) through the central highlands is driveable with the right vehicle and offers the most remote Iceland experience.
Realities to Be Aware Of
Iceland is very expensive. A mid-range daily budget for a couple with a rental car, campsites or budget accommodation, and some restaurant meals: ISK 40,000-70,000 ($280-500 USD) per day for two people. Restaurant meals in Reykjavik: ISK 2,500-4,500 per main course. Supermarket cooking is the main tool for budget control - Krónan and Bónus are the cheaper chains. Camping reduces accommodation costs significantly, and Iceland's campsite network is well-maintained.
Weather is highly variable at any time of year. Summer can include cold, rainy days; winter can have clear and mild spells. The wind on Iceland is serious - it can make walking difficult and is dangerous near cliff edges. Check weather forecasts (vedur.is) before heading into the highlands or on coastal routes. The road condition website (road.is) is essential for highland F-road access status.
If Iceland Is Part of a Longer Trip
The Icelandair stopover program makes Iceland a natural midpoint on transatlantic flights. The Faroe Islands are a 1-hour flight away and work well as a North Atlantic combination. Air Iceland Connect flies Reykjavik to Greenland regularly. Norway (Bergen) is accessible and shares the Norse historical connection.
Yearly Things to Consider
Iceland has two main visitor seasons. Summer (June-August) brings midnight sun, open highlands and the most facilities running. Winter (November-March) is for Northern Lights, glacier hiking and snowy landscapes. The shoulder seasons (April-May, September-October) are increasingly popular, with fewer visitors, lower prices and conditions that keep improving.
Iceland Climate by Month
| Month | Temp | Rainfall | Season | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| January | 33°F (1°C) | 3.5 in | Shoulder | Northern Lights season; dark and cold; New Year fireworks spectacular |
| February | 33°F (1°C) | 3.0 in | High (Northern Lights) | Best Northern Lights odds; ice caves accessible; fewer visitors |
| March | 35°F (2°C) | 2.8 in | Shoulder | Northern Lights still; days lengthening; ice caves closing |
| April | 40°F (4°C) | 2.2 in | Shoulder | Spring; highlands closed; crowds manageable; good value |
| May | 47°F (8°C) | 1.9 in | Shoulder | Midnight sun approaching; F-roads not yet open; pleasant |
| June | 52°F (11°C) | 1.7 in | High | Midnight sun; puffins; highlands opening; peak season starts |
| July | 55°F (13°C) | 2.0 in | High | Peak; warmest; most crowded; highest prices; F-roads open |
| August | 54°F (12°C) | 2.4 in | High | Still peak; good conditions; highlands fully open |
| September | 48°F (9°C) | 3.0 in | Shoulder | Excellent; Northern Lights starting; fewer visitors; F-roads closing |
| October | 41°F (5°C) | 3.5 in | Shoulder | Northern Lights good; autumn colors; off-peak value |
| November | 36°F (2°C) | 3.5 in | Shoulder | Darker; Northern Lights; ice cave season starting |
| December | 33°F (1°C) | 3.3 in | Shoulder | Short days; Northern Lights; Christmas in Reykjavik; quiet |
Ideas for Itineraries
3 Days in Iceland
Three days is Reykjavik plus the Golden Circle and South Coast. Day one in Reykjavik (Hallgrímskirkja, the Harpa concert hall, the old harbour, a geothermal swimming pool - not the Blue Lagoon, the city pools like Sundhöllin are better value and more local). Day two the Golden Circle: Þingvellir National Park, Geysir geothermal area, Gullfoss waterfall. Day three the South Coast: Seljalandsfoss and Skógafoss waterfalls, Reynisfjara black sand beach.
5 Days in Iceland
Add the Snæfellsnes Peninsula (2-3 hours from Reykjavik) for a Glacier, Arnarstapi coastal cliffs, and the Jules Verne connection (the peninsula is where Journey to the Centre of the Earth begins), or push further east on the South Coast to Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon - the floating icebergs in the lagoon and on the black sand Diamond Beach are among Iceland's most photographed landscapes.
1 Week in Iceland
A week is the ring road done at pace, or a regional focus done properly. The ring road (1,309km) is technically driveable in 5 days but requires very long driving days with little time to explore. Better: ring road highlights (south coast, East Fjords, Mývatn in the north) over 7 days with rest stops. Or: Reykjavik plus South Coast plus Snæfellsnes plus the highlands entry at Landmannalaugar (July-September only).
2 Weeks or More in Iceland
Two weeks is the ring road with time to actually stop, plus either the Westfjords (requires dedicated 3-4 days) or the highland interior if visiting in summer. The Laugavegur trail (4-5 days hiking) can be added to a two-week Iceland trip for those who want both driving and serious hiking. Iceland has a growing base of digital nomads in Reykjavik, attracted by safety, infrastructure, and the environment; the city has good co-working infrastructure, though at Icelandic prices.
From the BootsnAll archive
9 stories and articles about Iceland, 2004 to 2017
- Iceland: Scarred Beauty
Article · Suellen Zima
- Five Day Southern Iceland Itinerary
Article · Rebeca Alves
- 9 Incredible Things to Experience in Iceland
Article · Katie Hammel
- 10 Reasons to Visit Iceland Now
Article · 2017 · Katie Hammel
- Springtime in Iceland
Article · 2013 · Vicki Lillo
- Iceland’s Natural Wonders in Photos
Article · 2009 · Katie Hammel
- Iceland for Beginners
Article · 2009 · Nicolas De Corte
- Never an Idle Moment - Iceland
Story · 2004 · Leif Pettersen
Show all 9
- Cheap Eats - Reykjavik, Iceland
Article · 2008 · LuLing Osofsky · Reykjavik
Cities in Iceland
Iceland Travel FAQ
Budget for $250-350 USD per person per day for a mid-range Iceland trip with a rental car. That's accommodation ($80-150 per night in a guesthouse or camping), car rental ($80-150 per day for a small car, more for 4WD), fuel (Iceland is large and petrol is expensive), and food ($50-80 per person per day if you're cooking some meals yourself). Restaurant-only eating adds significantly. A week for two mid-range travelers: approximately $3,500-5,000 total including flights.
September through March, with October through February having the longest dark nights. You need clear skies, darkness, and sufficient solar activity (check aurora forecast apps like Space Weather Live). Being away from city lights helps significantly - the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, the south coast, or any rural guesthouse is better than Reykjavik. Plan at least 4-5 nights to improve your odds - many people visit for a week and don't see them due to clouds.
For the ring road (Route 1) and most paved roads, no - a regular car is fine in summer. For F-roads (highland interior routes, marked with 'F' prefix), a 4WD with high clearance is legally required and practically necessary. Some F-roads involve river crossings that require actual off-road capability. In winter, a 4WD with winter tyres is strongly recommended for anywhere outside Reykjavik. Check road.is for current road status before driving.
The Blue Lagoon is now firmly a luxury experience at €70-100+ per person, requires advance booking, and has been disrupted several times by the nearby Reykjanes volcanic activity. The milky blue water and silica mud are the real thing, unlike any other thermal pool, and it's well run. But Iceland's municipal pools (Sundhöllin in Reykjavik, pools throughout the country at €7-10 entry) are where Icelanders go, and they're a more authentic way to bathe. Try both if you have the time and budget.
Icelandair's transatlantic flights route through Keflavík Airport, and the airline offers a free stopover of up to 7 nights on any Icelandair transatlantic booking at no extra airfare cost. If you're flying between North America and Europe with Icelandair, you can spend several days in Iceland on the way through. This makes Iceland a natural add-on to a European trip. The stopover program is available on both outbound and return legs.
Update history (20)▸
· Rewrite
Edited for readability and the BootsnAll voice: generic phrasing cut in 6 passages, no facts changed
· Fact-check
Fact-checked against current sources: 2 corrections
- Route 1 has never been 1,332 km. It was about 1,322 km for years, and a new Hornafjarðarfljót section opened in June 2026 brought it down to 1,309 km. (source)
- The listed Laugavegur claim checks out. But the next sentence treats Kjölur and Kjalvegur as two routes. Kjalvegur means 'Kjölur Road': it is the F35 track across the Kjölur plateau, so they are one route. (source)
· Rewrite
Updated for modern frameworks, with content updates and changes
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
1 member blog post from 1 blogger
- 2014: 1 post from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees: all content and prices updated August 2013
· Contributors
1 article, by Vicki Lillo
- April 2013: Springtime in Iceland - Vicki Lillo (article) (source)
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Update
Annual update by Adam Seper, including traveler dispatches and AirTreks returnees
· Contributors
1 article, by Nicolas De Corte, plus 5 member blog posts from 1 blogger
· Archive
Travel guide on BootsnAll, at a new address
Archived copy of /Europe-Iceland· Contributors
1 article, by LuLing Osofsky, plus 4 member blog posts from 2 bloggers
· Contributors
14 member blog posts from 4 bloggers
- 2007: 14 posts from 4 travelers on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
6 member blog posts from 1 blogger
- 2005: 6 posts from 1 traveler on BootsnAll Travel Blogs (source)
· Contributors
1 story, by Leif Pettersen
- May 2004: Never an Idle Moment - Iceland - Leif Pettersen (story) (source)
· Contributors
Chris Heidrich, BootsnAll co-founder, has contributed to this guide since 1999, including dispatches from BootsnAll and AirTreks travelers

