Ayutthaya Travel Guide

Ayutthaya in 2026 is easier to reach than it has been in years, with an air-conditioned 50-baht train from Bangkok since August, and still mostly seen badly, at noon, from a tour bus. Sleep one night, rent a 40-baht bicycle, and the old capital of Siam is yours at 8am.

Photo: Average trinmo, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Updated October 2026

BootsnAll Scorecard

6.8 / 10

Ayutthaya scores best on value and on how easily it rewards a traveler with a bicycle, and worst on timing, because the heat from March to May and the rain from May to October shape a visit more than any ruin does.

Value
8
Right on the 8 anchor, with Hostelworld dorms from about US$7 to $9, a 300-baht ticket covering seven Fine Arts Department sites, and a 50-baht air-conditioned train from Bangkok.
Getting around
6
Above the 5 anchor only because the island is flat and bikeable, since there's no local transit to speak of and the outer sites mean a 300-baht-an-hour tuk-tuk or a scooter you may not be licensed to ride.
Crowds and timing
5
Sits on the 5 anchor, with April highs of 99°F (37°C), 10.2 inches of rain in August, river flooding in September 2025, and Bangkok day-tour groups filling the main ruins once they arrive.
Safety and hassle
7.5
Closer to 8 than to 5, as the risks are stray dogs, bag snatching from bicycle baskets and tuk-tuk quotes of 2,000 baht, all minor and well documented.
Food and drink
7
Below the 8 anchor because the depth is thinner than Bangkok's, though grilled river prawns, boat noodles, roti sai mai and two riverside night markets make everyday eating good and cheap.
Indie fit
7.5
Near the 8 anchor, since a bicycle, a ferry and a map get you to almost everything without a guide, and the packaged day tour is the worse way to see it.

Editorial scores, 1 to 10, against the same written anchors for every city. Half points allowed. The overall is the plain average of the six.

Overview and Things to Consider

Ayutthaya is an island of brick ruins inside a provincial town. The Chao Phraya, the Pa Sak and the Lopburi rivers wrap around the old city, and a ring road, U Thong, follows the water all the way round. Inside it, the prangs and headless Buddhas of a capital burned in 1767 sit between schools, noodle shops and 7-Elevens. The town has about 50,000 registered residents. The province around it is a manufacturing belt, where factories, Honda's among them, make up about 61 percent of provincial output, so this isn't a heritage theme park. People live here, commute to Bangkok and eat at the night markets you'll be eating at.

You'll love Ayutthaya if you like history you can cycle through, if you want a cheap, slow night or two out of Bangkok, or if you're heading north by train anyway. You'll hate it if you need intact buildings. Almost everything here is a ruin, much of it reconstructed in brick, and after the third roofless wihan in 95-degree heat some people are done. It's not a nightlife town either.

The 2026 moment is the train. On August 1, 2026, the State Railway launched SRT Bangkok Connex, refurbished Japanese diesel railcars with air conditioning running from Krung Thep Aphiwat to Ayutthaya for a promotional maximum of 50 baht through October 31. Combined with the 15- to 20-baht third-class trains, there's no reason to take a minivan or a tour coach. Thailand also cut its visa exemption to 30 days on September 15, 2026, which matters if Ayutthaya is one stop on a longer loop.

Overrated? The Buddha head in the tree roots at Wat Mahathat. It's real and it's worth seeing, but you'll queue for a photo, kneeling so your head stays below it, and it takes 30 seconds. The better hour is late afternoon at Wat Chaiwatthanaram across the river, or the free, almost empty ruins on the south side of the island that the tour buses never reach.

How Ayutthaya Got Here

King U Thong founded Ayutthaya in 1351, and for 416 years it was the capital of Siam. It sat at the head of the navigable river, between China, India and the Malay world, and it got rich on that. Sixteenth-century Europeans counted it among the three great powers of Asia with Vijayanagara and Ming China. Foreign traders weren't allowed inside the walls, so Japanese, Portuguese and Dutch communities lived across the water. That's why the most interesting sites off the island are the old settlements, and why a Persian-born Shia minister, Sheikh Ahmad Qomi, is buried on the grounds of a university here.

In April 1767, after a 14-month siege, Burmese Konbaung armies took the city and burned it. The gold was melted off the 16-meter Buddha at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, and within fifteen years the capital had moved downriver to Thonburi and then Bangkok. The ruined core of the old city was left largely abandoned until conservation work began.

UNESCO inscribed the Historic City of Ayutthaya on December 13, 1991, which is why the World Heritage Fair runs every December. The water that made the city also keeps threatening it. In October 2011, floods put Wat Chaiwatthanaram under two meters of water and swamped the province's industrial estates, and the Fine Arts Department's restoration budget for that one temple was 200 million baht. What you see is a site that has been rebuilt more than once, and you can read the new brick against the old.

Getting There and Around

There's no airport. Most people come from Bangkok, 71 kilometers south by rail, and the train is the way to do it. Since August 1, 2026, SRT Bangkok Connex has run air-conditioned former JR East railcars from Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal, calling at Don Mueang, Rangsit, Khlong Phutsa, Bang Pa-In and Ban Pho. The fare to Ayutthaya is capped at 50 baht on a promotion running to October 31, 2026. On weekdays there are six trips and the first leaves at 5:15am. On weekends there are four, and the 9:05am arrives at 10:20am, with returns at 2:40pm or 7:45pm. Seats are unreserved, sold at the station, not online.

The other trains are cheaper and more frequent. Ordinary third-class trains still leave from the old Hua Lamphong station for about 15 to 20 baht and take around an hour and 45 minutes. Most long-distance trains moved to Krung Thep Aphiwat on January 19, 2023, and from there a rapid train costs about 20 baht in third class, 245 baht with air-conditioning and a reserved seat, and 345 baht for a special express. Express trains do the run in about an hour. Book reserved seats on the State Railway's D-Ticket site. Third-class tickets are sold at the counter on the day. If you land at Don Mueang (DMK), the Connex stops at the airport station, so you can skip central Bangkok altogether.

Buses leave Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal about every 20 minutes for 50 baht. They're scheduled at an hour and a half, but allow two, because they stop often and the roads out of Bangkok jam. A booked car from either Bangkok airport runs about 1,200 baht.

Entry rules changed on September 15, 2026. Citizens of the US, Canada, the UK, Australia and the EU now enter visa-free for up to 30 days for tourism, down from 60, and the UK government says visa-exempt entry is normally limited to two a calendar year. An extension of up to 30 days is possible at immigration, reported at about 1,900 baht and not automatic. Since May 1, 2025, every foreign arrival must also complete the free Thailand Digital Arrival Card online within three days before arriving. Your passport needs six months of validity, and officers can ask for onward travel and 10,000 baht in funds.

Ayutthaya station is on the east bank, off the island. Walk across the main road and down the lane opposite to a ferry that crosses every few minutes for 5 baht, or take a tuk-tuk, which shouldn't cost more than 100 baht for two. There's a cloak room on the platform for 10 baht if you're catching a later train north. On the island, there's no bus network for visitors. You cycle, hire a tuk-tuk at about 300 baht an hour from the station's official drivers, or open Grab, which lists Ayutthaya among the central provinces it serves.

What's Changed Since 2016

January 2023: the trains moved. Fifty-two long-distance services that used to end at Hua Lamphong moved to Krung Thep Aphiwat Central Terminal at Bang Sue on January 19, 2023. Old guidebooks that tell you to just go to Hua Lamphong are half right now. Only ordinary and commuter trains still run there, and anything faster, including the overnight trains you might pick up in Ayutthaya heading north, starts at Krung Thep Aphiwat.

2018 and after: Thai crowds arrived. Love Destiny, a 2018 TV period drama set in Ayutthaya during the 17th-century reign of King Narai, was a national hit. It set off a craze for traditional Thai costume and pulled Thai visitors to its filming locations. Expect to share the ruins with Thai visitors in period dress posing for photos.

August 2026: a proper train. The KiHa 40 and 48 railcars that JR East donated arrived in Thailand in June 2024 and were converted to meter gauge. On August 1, 2026, they became SRT Bangkok Connex, replacing a weekday-only Don Mueang to Ayutthaya service with daily trains from Krung Thep Aphiwat. The 50-baht cap is a promotion that ends October 31, 2026, so check the fare after that. The Bangkok to Nakhon Ratchasima high-speed line will one day stop here too, but work on the contract for the section through Ayutthaya station hadn't started, and phase one isn't expected to open before 2030.

September 2025 and after: water and mourning. In mid-September 2025, higher releases from the Chao Phraya Dam flooded six districts of the province and displaced more than 25,000 households, though Fine Arts Department flood barriers protected Wat Chaiwatthanaram. Queen Sirikit died on October 24, 2025, and the Maha Loi Krathong festival at Wat Phra Ram that November was toned down for the mourning period, with visitors asked to wear sober colors. Government mourning lasts a year, until late October 2026.

August and September 2026: two headlines. On August 16, 2026, a hollow old tree fell beside a walkway at Wat Phra Si Sanphet at midday, in calm weather, and injured four Spanish visitors, one of them seriously. On September 10, the former abbot of Wat Phutthaisawan was arrested on suspicion of embezzling over 92 million baht of temple funds.

What the Usual Advice Gets Wrong

"Ayutthaya is an easy day trip from Bangkok, so book a tour." It is easy, which is the problem. Tour coaches reach the big ruins after the drive up from Bangkok, into the hottest part of the day, and leave before the light gets good. The park sites open at 7:30 to 8:30am. Stay one night, ride a bike to Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana early, rest at noon, and finish at Wat Chaiwatthanaram, where you can stay on after the 6:30pm ticket cutoff.

"Start at the Ayutthaya Historical Study Centre to get your bearings." The centre has been closed to the public since 2019. For context, go to the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum on Pridi Banomyong Road instead, open Tuesday to Sunday, 9am to 4pm, for 200 baht. It holds the gold found in the crypt of Wat Ratchaburana in 1958.

"Trains to Ayutthaya leave from Hua Lamphong." Only the slow ordinary trains still do. Since January 2023 the faster trains, and since August 2026 the air-conditioned Bangkok Connex, leave from Krung Thep Aphiwat, 7 kilometers north. Check which station your train uses before you get in a taxi.

"Take the tuk-tuk tour your minibus driver hands you to." Drivers waiting at minibus drop-offs quote tours from 2,000 baht and show books of testimonials. Station tuk-tuks with names on the official board at the end of the platform quote about 300 baht an hour, and four hours for 1,000 baht is a normal deal. Street drivers start around 200 baht an hour.

"Ride an elephant past the ruins. It's the Ayutthaya thing to do." The elephants belong to the Royal Elephant Kraal Village, run by the nonprofit Phra Kochabaan Foundation, with nearly 80 animals and a program in which visitors ride daily. Its breeding and rescue work is real, but riding is the part we'd skip. The historic kraal itself, where kings watched wild elephants corralled until 1893, has been a registered historic monument since 1941, and it's worth seeing for what it says about the old kingdom.

"Ayutthaya Floating Market is the old Ayutthaya on the water." It's a recreated attraction with costume theater and a pond divided into zones for the province's districts, and as of 2024 it charged 200 baht to get in. If you want the river, take a cross-river ferry or charter a longtail at Pom Phet.

Ideas to Consider for Your Visit

Have you thought about cycling the whole island? It takes a day at an easy pace. Bikes cost about 40 baht a day on Naresuan Soi 2, and the good shops throw in a lock. Check the brakes and tires, since many aren't well kept. Do the paid core first, Wat Mahathat, Wat Ratchaburana and Wat Phra Si Sanphet, then ride west to Wat Lokaya Sutha's 42-meter reclining Buddha, which is free, and drift south to the brick ruins of Wat Wang Chai and Wat Som, where you may be the only visitor.

Buy the 300-baht pass if you're doing more than three of the 80-baht sites. It covers seven Fine Arts Department monuments for seven days. It won't cover everything. Wat Phanan Choeng, the working temple with a 19-meter seated Buddha dated 1334, older than the city itself, charges foreigners 40 baht, and a few sites outside the scheme charge their own small fees. Insist on a ticket when you pay, because Wikivoyage reports sellers at some gates pocketing cash without issuing one.

Have you thought about going across the water to the foreign quarters? The Portuguese Settlement, south of the island, has the excavated Dominican church with its burials on show. The Japanese Settlement is now a park and small museum run by the Thai-Japanese Association, with a 15-minute film that does a better job explaining Ayutthaya's trade than any sign in the park. Entry is 50 baht, and Japanese Village Ayutthaya holds Hanami, Tanabata and Loy Krathong nights. The Dutch lodge site is nearby on the east bank.

Eat the river. Ayutthaya is known for kung maenam pao, giant river prawns grilled over charcoal, and a riverside restaurant like Sai Thong or Ayudhayarome, where mains run about 100 to 250 baht, is the place to order them. Boat noodles, kuaitiao ruea, come in small bowls so you stack up three or four. Then roti sai mai, the local Muslim sweet of colored spun sugar rolled in a thin pancake, sold for 40 to 50 baht. Roti Saimai Mae Pom made the Michelin Bib Gourmand list in 2022. For dinner, try the night market on U Thong Road in front of Chantharakasem Palace, with about 50 stalls along the river, or the Bang Ian Road market from 5pm.

Have you thought about climbing something? Wat Phu Khao Thong, a white chedi in open fields off the island, costs 20 baht and you can climb to the top for the long view over the plain. Wat Chaiwatthanaram's central prang can be climbed from all sides, and the Khmer-style towers make the best late-afternoon light in the city. Wat Na Phra Men, north of the island and 20 baht, is one of the few temples that came through 1767 intact.

Day trip to Bang Pa-In Palace, about 20 kilometers south. Songthaews and minibuses leave from Chao Phrom Market from 6am and take about 40 minutes, or the train takes 15 minutes. The palace is open 8am to 4pm and costs 100 baht, golf carts are 400 baht for the first hour, and dress rules are enforced, so cover your knees and shoulders or buy a 100-baht wrap at the gate. Don't miss Wat Niwet Thammaprawat across the river, a Buddhist temple built to look like a Gothic church.

The Part Most Guides Miss

Ayutthaya was a trading port before it was anything else, and the rivers around the island are where you can still see it. A short ferry ride takes you from the Pom Phet fortress at the island's southeast corner across to Wat Phanan Choeng, the Thai-Chinese temple whose great seated Buddha predates the city, and from there the Dutch, Japanese and Portuguese settlement sites are a short ride south. Most visitors see one ruined temple after another on the island and leave thinking Ayutthaya was a religious capital. Spend half a day off the island on the water and the trading port comes back into view.

Where to Base Yourself

Naresuan Soi 2 and Soi Torgorsor. The backpacker strip, opposite the west end of Chao Phrom Market, with guesthouses, bike and scooter rental shops next to each other, and the few late bars in town. Hostelworld lists dorms in Ayutthaya from about US$7 to $9 a night. It's walkable to Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana and close to the market's food and the Bang Pa-In songthaews. The catch is noise from the bars and the live music in the evenings.

East bank, near the station. Best if you're arriving by train late or leaving on an early one north. A few guesthouses, like Mint Guest House, sit within sight of the station, you can leave a bag in the platform cloak room, and the 5-baht ferry puts you on the island in minutes. The catch is that everything you came for is across the water, so you'll ferry or tuk-tuk every time you go out.

Near the historical park. For people who want to be on the bike at 7:30am. The quiet lanes off Pathon Road, south of Wat Mahathat, hold guesthouses such as Baantebpitak, a 10-minute walk from Wat Mahathat, with a pool, which matters here from March to May. They're away from the bar noise and still close to the main ruins. The catch is fewer cheap places to eat at night and higher room rates than on Soi 2.

Realities to Be Aware Of

Ayutthaya is cheaper than Bangkok. Nomadic Matt's Thailand budgets, updated in September 2026, are 1,750 baht (about $52) a day for a backpacker, 3,100 baht ($92) mid-range and 6,000 baht ($179) and up for comfort, and you'll come in under each here. A dorm is about $7 to $9, a bike 40 baht, the 300-baht pass covers a day or two of ruins, and street dishes run 30 to 100 baht. The extras that add up are tuk-tuk hours and museum fees, 200 baht at Chao Sam Phraya and 120 baht at Chantharakasem.

The heat is the main hazard. Daily highs average 98 to 99°F (37°C) from March to May, so start early, carry water, and rest from noon to three. Cycling brings smaller risks. Wikivoyage warns that bags get snatched from bicycle baskets at traffic lights and that women on bikes have been groped by passing motorcyclists. Stray dogs can be a nuisance at night, especially in the off season. And since August 2026, after the tree fall at Wat Phra Si Sanphet, it's fair to keep off the paths under the biggest old trees on windy days.

Scooters are everywhere at about 200 baht a day, but you need a license or International Driving Permit that covers motorcycles, or your insurance likely won't pay after a crash. Don't hand over your passport as a deposit if you can avoid it. Some shops take a photocopy and 2,000 baht cash instead. Vapes and e-cigarettes are illegal to own in Thailand, with fines of 5,000 to 30,000 baht, and visitors get no exemption.

Ruins with an entry fee have no dress code, but working temples like Wat Phanan Choeng and Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon expect long trousers or skirts and covered shoulders. Don't climb on Buddha images, and kneel for the photo with the Buddha head at Wat Mahathat so your head is lower. Thailand legalized same-sex marriage on January 23, 2025, and same-sex couples won't attract attention in a town this used to Thai and foreign visitors.

What things cost in Ayutthaya

Prices checked October 2026. Each links to where we read it.

ItemPriceSource
Hostel dorm bedUS$7.30-9.10 (about 245-305 baht) a nightHostelworld Ayutthaya listings, Oct 2026
SRT Bangkok Connex, Krung Thep Aphiwat to Ayutthaya50 baht (about $1.50) maximum, promotion to Oct 31, 2026The Thaiger, Jul 2026
Ordinary third-class train from Bangkok15-20 baht (about 50 cents)Wikivoyage Ayutthaya, Sep 2026
Fine Arts Department seven-site, seven-day pass300 baht (about $9), or 80 baht a siteWikivoyage Ayutthaya, Aug 2026
Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, foreign visitors200 baht (about $6)Wikivoyage Ayutthaya museums, Aug 2026
Tuk-tuk hire from the stationAbout 300 baht ($9) an hour, or about 1,000 baht for four hoursWikivoyage Ayutthaya, getting around
Bang Pa-In Palace entry100 baht (about $3)Wikivoyage Bang Pa-In, Oct 2026
Street food dish30-100 baht (about $1-3)Nomadic Matt Thailand guide, Sep 2026

Dollar figures use about 33.6 baht to US$1, the European Central Bank cross rate of October 2, 2026.

If Ayutthaya Is Part of a Longer Trip

Ayutthaya sits on the main line north, so every train to Chiang Mai, the northeast and Laos stops here. You can treat it as the first night of a rail trip rather than a day out of Bangkok. North, Lopburi is about an hour away for 20 baht in third class or 260 baht in air-conditioned second class, and its ruins, including the three-towered Phra Prang Sam Yot at 50 baht, make a half-day stop. Its famous macaques were fewer by March 2026, after the government relocated and sterilized many of them. Beyond that, trains continue to Phitsanulok for Sukhothai, the capital before Ayutthaya, and on to Chiang Mai, five a day, about 10 hours, with sleepers.

East and northeast, trains run to Ubon Ratchathani, seven a day in about seven hours, and to Nong Khai and Tha Naleng for Vientiane, three or four a day in about eight hours. Kanchanaburi takes more work, a local bus to Suphanburi for 60 baht and a minibus on for 100 baht, about three and a half hours in all (Feb 2024 prices).

For a longer loop, the usual sequencing is Bangkok, Ayutthaya, then north by rail, flying back south from Chiang Mai for the islands, or crossing into Laos at Nong Khai. If Thailand is one leg of a bigger route through Southeast Asia and beyond, AirTreks builds multi-stop tickets that let you arrive in Bangkok and leave from somewhere else. Keep the new 30-day visa-free limit in mind and plan the order so you're not paying for an extension.

Yearly Things to Consider

The weather sets the calendar. The cool season, November to February, is the only stretch when midday highs dip to about 88 to 93°F (31 to 34°C) and almost no rain falls, so it's also when the Bangkok tours and the festivals land. Loy Krathong comes at the November full moon, and the World Heritage Fair runs about a week in mid-December around the anniversary of the UNESCO listing, with a light-and-sound show. March to May is brutally hot, and Songkran on April 13 brings a procession at Wihan Phra Mongkhon Bophit.

The counterintuitive pick is the rainy season, especially June and July. Rain falls on 16 to 17 days a month, the ruins are green, and the crowds thin out. Avoid late September and October if your plans are fixed, because that's when the rivers peak. The province flooded in September 2025 and October 2011, and while the core ruins are now protected by flood barriers, roads and riverside areas outside the dikes go under.

Ayutthaya month by month

MonthTempRainfallSeasonNotes
January89°F (32°C)0.09 inHighDry, and the most comfortable month to cycle.
February93°F (34°C)0.7 inHighStill dry, warming fast. Good for cycling before 11am.
March98°F (37°C)1.7 inShoulderHot season begins. Ride before 10am and rest at noon.
April99°F (37°C)2.7 inLowHottest month. Songkran procession on April 13.
May98°F (37°C)8.2 inLowHeat plus the first big storms. Cheap rooms.
June94°F (34°C)8.8 inLowRainy season, green ruins, short afternoon downpours.
July93°F (34°C)7.1 inLowQuietest weeks for the park. Buddhist Lent temple circuit.
August91°F (33°C)10.2 inLowWettest month, 19 rain days on average.
September90°F (32°C)8.4 inLowRivers rise. The province flooded in September 2025.
October90°F (32°C)6.6 inLowFlood risk peaks early in the month, then rain eases.
November90°F (32°C)1.5 inHighDry season returns. Loy Krathong at the full moon.
December88°F (31°C)0.03 inHighCoolest month. World Heritage Fair in mid-December.

Ideas for Itineraries

3 Days in Ayutthaya

Three days is the right length. Day one, take the morning train up from Bangkok, cross on the 5-baht ferry, check in near Soi 2, rent a bike, and do Wat Mahathat and Wat Ratchaburana once the noon heat breaks, ending with dinner at the night market by Chantharakasem Palace. Day two, start at 8am at Wat Phra Si Sanphet and Wat Phra Ram, spend the hot hours in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum, and ride to Wat Chaiwatthanaram for late afternoon. Day three, cross the river to Wat Phanan Choeng and the foreign settlements, then catch a train north or back to Bangkok.

5 Days in Ayutthaya

Five days lets you add the edges. Do the three-day plan, then spend day four at Bang Pa-In Palace by songthaew from Chao Phrom Market, back in time for grilled river prawns at a riverside restaurant. On day five, take the train an hour north to Lopburi for Phra Prang Sam Yot and King Narai's Palace, and either return or sleep there and keep heading north.

1 Week in Ayutthaya

A week is more than most people need for the ruins themselves, so use Ayutthaya as the first stop on a rail week. Spend two nights here, one in Lopburi, then take the train to Phitsanulok and the bus to Sukhothai for two nights, so you can compare the two old capitals. Finish with the long train or a bus to Chiang Mai. You'll see three periods of Thai history in order.

2 Weeks or More in Ayutthaya

A long stay in Ayutthaya is unusual but it works if you want a cheap, quiet base close to Bangkok. Look for monthly rooms around Naresuan Road or on the east bank near the station, where you can be in Bangkok in about 90 minutes by train for meetings or a weekend. Plan on working from cafes and your room. Weekends out include Bang Pa-In, the Bang Sai Arts and Crafts Centre fairs in January and November, Lopburi, and the ordinary train to Don Mueang for cheap flights.

Sources

What this guide is built on. Every page below was read for this guide; prices and rules were checked in October 2026.

Ayutthaya Travel FAQ

Mostly no. The paid sites close between 6pm and 7pm, Wat Phra Si Sanphet at 7pm and Wat Chaiwatthanaram at 6:30pm, though at Chaiwatthanaram you can stay a while after the ticket desk shuts. The exceptions are festival nights, the World Heritage Fair in December and Loy Krathong in November, when shows run inside the park after dark.

Yes, for most people. A night lets you see the main ruins at 8am before the coaches arrive and Wat Chaiwatthanaram at the end of the day, which are the two best times. Rooms are cheap, from about $7 for a dorm, and the night markets are where the town eats. If you only have one day, go on the first train and come back on the last.

Don Mueang's station is on the same line, so it's the easiest arrival. The Bangkok Connex stops at Don Mueang on all its runs, and ordinary trains call there too. From Krung Thep Aphiwat, the Connex takes about 75 minutes to Ayutthaya, and from Don Mueang it's a little less, since the airport is the first stop north.

Yes. Temple ticket desks, ferries, night market stalls, bike shops and third-class train tickets are cash, and the station counters sell Connex tickets on the day. Keep small notes, since a 5-baht ferry ride and a 20-baht chedi don't break a 1,000-baht note well.

Yes. There's a left luggage office on the platform, marked Cloak Room, that charges 10 baht, according to Seat61. It's the simple way to do the ruins between a morning arrival and an evening train north to Chiang Mai or Nong Khai.

The ruined sites have no dress code, but working temples expect long trousers or skirts and no sleeveless tops, and Bang Pa-In Palace enforces it and sells 100-baht wraps at the gate. A light long-sleeved shirt and loose trousers also keep the sun off, which matters more here than anywhere else in central Thailand.