Stories
First-person narratives from OG Travelers rooted in the independent travel principles
6 - Istanbul (Not Constantinople) - Turkey – Searching for Something
13 Mar 2002 I can't help but sing that catchy They Might Be Giants song everywhere we go in Istanbul.
Chinese Festivals
China is a country with many ethnic minorities and rich cultural heritage.
Fortaleza General Information
According to some local historians Vicente Yanez was supposed to have landed on Pria Mucuripe on the 2nd February 1500, two months before Pedro…
Natural Wonders: Vietnam National Parks
I usually think about how people draft their trips and vacations.
Surviving a Night at Quebec’s Ice Hotel – Quebec, Canada
I stood frozen. It wasn’t just the bitter cold of Quebec in February. I was looking at an Eskimo’s wet dream.
Urumqi, China – Kanas
The Kanas is a magical and appealing place for all ages. It is an enchanting Mongolian name which means "beautiful and mysterious".
Travels without a Plan #20
Northern Thailand After the hustle and bustle of Bangkok, it was definately time to move on. For all its hectic-ness, Bangkok is a great town, and it’s a place that you know that people who are coming to SE Asia will visit.
A Round-the-World Journey to Find a New Home #9: Bodhgaya
Buddhist temples in Bodhgaya Unfortunately we have had two things go missing from our packs, one a Maglite torch that was lifted from our room in Nahan, and a camera, which we suspect but cannot be sure, was removed from our hotel in Varanasi.
Never an Idle Moment – Iceland
Despite a cumulative seven days in Reykjavik over the course of two separate visits, I failed to indulge in two of my main objectives in Iceland.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (7 of 7) – Turkey
After seven weeks in Arab lands I entered Turkey and immediately wished I could turn back.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (6 of 7) – Lebanon
"Ali, how come all Lebanese girls have big breasts?" I whispered across the breakfast table signing Pamela Anderson's figure.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (5 of 7) – Syria
After Israel, I made it to Syria from Jordan rather easily, the little "stamp me on a separate piece of paper" thing working quite well.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (4 of 7) – Israel
Alleluhia! I made it to Israel... and back! Actually, the Holy Land was a bit of a let down and far as excitement goes.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (3 of 7) – Jordan
I had planned to spend almost a week in Dahab , the Red Sea party town where I thought I could meet tons of interesting fellow travellers and lazily…
Dark Nights in the City of Kafka - Prague, Czech Republic
To walk in the city of Prague at night, with the mist lying wet on cobble-stoned alleys, is to walk in the footsteps of Mozart, Kafka and maybe Good King…
Sailing the Dodecanesee - Kos to Leros, Greek Islands, Greece
I need to start this story around Christmas of 2001, when a tiny seed of a travel idea germinated in my head. I'd always wanted to go to Greece ,…
So a Glaswegian Talks German to a Dutchwoman Part 1 of 2 - France, Belgium, Netherlands, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Luxembo
So a Glaswegian Talks German to a Dutchwoman France, Belgium, Netherlands, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Liechenstein Day 2, or day 3 in…
So a Glaswegian Talks German to a Dutchwoman Part 2 of 2 - France, Belgium, Netherlands, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Luxembo
So a Glaswegian Talks German to a Dutchwoman France, Belgium, Netherlands, Czech Republic, Germany, Italy, Luxembourg, Liechenstein Touring Europe in the…
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (2 of 7) – Siwa Oasis
Travelling, especially by yourself, is all about the people you meet along the way.
Cairo to Istanbul in a G-string (1 of 7) – Cairo
One week in Egypt and I didn't have to spit on anyone yet.
El Teniente – Chile
While roaming Chile last summer I had the opportunity to visit the El Teniente copper mine, said to be the largest underground mine in the world.
Table Mountain – Cape Town, South Africa
Two ways up Table Mountain: five minutes in the cable car, or three hours up Platteklip Gorge with a grandmother who will not hear of the cable car.
Welcome Back Broadway - October 2002 – Eugene, Oregon Travel Guide
Welcome Back Broadway October, a month that is usually characterized by the approach of dark foreboding clouds and the gradual appearance of…
Don't Leave Montréal Without Savouring a Smoked Meat Sandwich – Montréal Travel Guide
New York may have its pastrami, Toronto may have corned beef, Italy may boast about its pasta, however, there is no place in the world other than…
Chasing the Sun #5: Spain & Portugal
5: Spain & Portugal Gaudi Lizard at Parc Guell. There is no better place to start in Spain then the magical city of Barcelona . We were fortunate to arrive…
Chasing the Sun #6: Morocco
6: Morocco Chaouen Al Kasbah Restaurant. Sipping mint tea, taking in breathtaking sunsets in the desert, playing tam tams with the Berbers, weaving your way…
Chasing the Sun #3: Germany, Czech Republic, Switzerland, France
3: Germany, Czech Republic, Switzerland, France Bid and German friends at "Tour de Hamburg" After a 21-hour "Super Ferry" ride from Hanko, Finland to…
Chasing the Sun #4: France & Monaco
4: France & Monaco Nimes September began in Pau, France with some rest and relaxation at Emmanuel's grandparent's house. In Pau, we acquired our new tent…
Chasing the Sun #1: The Northern Coast of Brittany
1: The Northern Coast of Brittany Mont Saint Michel, France Barely into our two-year journey, our determination to chase the sun already seemed difficult.…
Chasing the Sun #2: Running from the Rain in June and July - UK to Finland
Nyhavn (Copenhagen, Denmark) 2: Running from the Rain in June and July We are so happy with our decision to sell everything and travel we are beside…
The Glasgow Salsa - Glasgow, Scotland
Tuesday night in Glasgow. The only night we have to explore the city which is renowned (in Scotland, anyway) for it's nightlife. However, the streets are…
Americans Visiting Paris: What to Expect - Paris, France
It's springtime in Paris. Let the strikes begin! The more things change the more things stay the same. While JFK's deserted thoroughfares resembled an…
Ice-Blocking – "Your Town" Travel Guide
Night fell, and the sound of the wintry rain created a somber mood.
Montréal's Bagels – Are they the Best in the World?
According to native Montrealers their bagels are the best in the world!
Oslo, Norway
Norway, to me, is the Argentina of Scandinavia.
Powell's City of Books – Portland, Oregon Travel Guide
Powell's is far more than just a bookstore; it's an essential part of the Portland experience.
Argentina – South America Newsletter
Located in southern South America on the coast of the South Atlantic Ocean, Argentina is bordered by Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Paraguay and Uruguay.
Guts and Glory: Angola Prison Rodeo (3 of 3) – Angola, Louisiana
No matter what acts these men have committed, few people in the state will call Angola a "country club" prison.
Travels in Cuba – Cigars, Salsa and Hemingway
Our holiday began in Havana, the capital of Cuba. It's a bustling city, full of classic cars, bike couriers and pedestrians.
A Round-the-World Journey to Find a New Home #10: Calcutta and the Andaman Islands
A hectic city and long white sandy beaches Calcutta and the Andaman Islands Calcutta has a reputation; at least it did in our minds. Guidebooks describe it as a place densely populated and polluted, with extreme poverty and a desperate feel to the city. Others have told us stories of the homeless children, the overcrowded
Joe and the Whale Shark – The Philippines
"Hey Joe!" yelled the darkly tanned men with weathered faces and ragged clothes fishing along the inaccessible riverbank as we floated through the…
Travels without a Plan #23
End of the Road – Cambodia and Thailand Well, this is quite honestly the last of my travel updates. Yup, this is the end of this particular road for me. The bank is calling, the credit card is stretched to the limit and I don’t think I can call in any more favours from family
The Game of Buzkashi in Afghanistan
Buzkashi is an ancient game of horsemanship played in Afghanistan. OG BootsnaAll Writer Mr Ginger shares his experience
Laos: A Wartime Visit
In 1970, Laos was a much different country to visit that today.
Afghanistan: Part of the OG Overland Trail
Before the Russians invaded, Afghanistan was a part of the overland trail between Europe and India. Not today.
Tall Ships Challenge 2001 (1 of 2) – Kingston, Lake Ontario, Canada
Kingston's St.
Montpellier, France
Only 1000 years old Montpellier is the capital of Languedoc-Rousillon, the biggest wine region in the world, set between the mountains of the…
Travels without a Plan #22
Vietnam – Home of a Million Organised Tours Sometimes you have to get away from the hawkers, taxi drivers and postcard sellers that swarm the the streets of Vietnam. I’m starting to see what other backpackers meant when they say that the locals only see you as a walking dollar sign. The best bit of
Travels without a Plan #21
Breakdowns, Delays and Overcrowding – The Joys of Travel in Laos The simple word of “Sabaidee” is the first word that you learn in Lao. Everyone says it, from young children to adults, words of greeting surround you when you arrive in this surprising and beautiful country. What have I done in the time I’ve
A Summer Walk into Montreal's Early Years under French Rule
If you are in Montréal on a sunny weekend summer day and if you want to hear and perhaps see the ghosts of early Montréal, take a walk through "Vieux…
Travels without a Plan #10
Melbourne Mumblings After all the excitement of the opening weekend of the Olympics, to say that arriving in Melbourne was a bit of a shock to the system would be an understatement. It also did not help that for the day before I was feeling like death warmed up, I think with a 48 hour
Lizards Ran Up My Walls
To achieve any sort of reward in this life you must first sacrifice.
Natal, Brazil
Last time I wrote about Natal (Prohibition Town Blues) I was snowed under with abusive emails about the negative press I gave the place - the local…
Travels without a Plan #12
Alice Springs – Darwin – Cairns It wasn’t that long that I wrote before but so much has happened that I’m getting behind on my news. From Alice Springs I managed to get a lift in a big van, with what people described as a fairly good representation of the United Nations. The owner of
Travels without a Plan #19
A wet Full Moon Party and finally arriving in Bangkok I’ve at long last arrived in Bangkok, which so far has totally surprised me, just due to the fact that it’s by as nowhere near bad as everyone has said it is. Yes it’s very hot, hectic, crowded, bustling, but I like it a lot.
Travels without a Plan #17
Cameron Highlands, Thaipusam and Taman Negarra Park From KL, it’s a short five hour coach ride to the town of Tana Rata in the Cameron Highlands. As with all my journeys in South East Asia, this one was not the best, with a badly dubbed James Bond film and a driver who seemed not to
Travels without a Plan #16
Singapore, Melaka and Kuala Lumpur I have finally left Australia and am well and truly onto the next stage in South East Asia. My final week in Australia can only really only be described as lazy, with not much going on apart from my first Cricket International, Australia A vs Zimbabwe (the Aussies won easily)
Travels without a Plan #15
New Year’s Eve, Surfers Paradise and Brisbane If I had thought Christmas was rather surreal in Byron Bay, there is only one word that can describe New Year’s Eve, and that is awesome. The streets around Byron are all closed off to traffic, all residents at hostels are issued with wrist bands to show that
Abandoned Mandu
India is a country full of romantic ruins, forts and abandoned cities, and often the most memorable moments of a trip to India are spent exploring…
Krakatau by Night
The eruption of the Indonesian volcano Krakatau, or Krakatoa as most history books refer to it, in 1883 is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as…
Lions in the Serengeti (1 of 3) – Serengeti National Park, Tanzania
Siblings change their purpose over time.
Mahakam: Into the Heart of Borneo (1 of 4) – Indonesia
The rain, which poured down ceaselessly in sheets all night and then most of the morning, shouldn't have surprised us.
Travels without a Plan #14
Whitsunday Islands, Fraser Island and my Alternative Christmas Hope everyone has had a good Christmas and Santa has been good to you all. It may sound rather sad, but it’s Boxing Day and I have decided that I need to stay out of the sun a bit, avoid beer and other corrupting influences for at
Travels without a Plan #13
Reefs and Rainforests: Far North Tropical Queensland I was pretty pleased when I eventually left Cairns; it’s the type of place that is able to suck money out of your wallet without you realizing. Chatting with some people in the hostel, they casually mentioned that some of the hostels in Port Douglas run a free
Pedalling to Nirvana: Mount Kailash by Bicycle (1 of 7)
"The highest road in the world." The words grabbed my attention when I first read them.
Travels without a Plan #5
The West Coast – Milford Sound to Nelson When they say the West Coast of New Zealand is the second wettest place on the planet, they were not wrong. I’ve seen my fair share of rain and water to last me for a lifetime. Rather than doing the full four day hike on Milford Sound
Travels without a Plan #8
Sydney Musings I realize it’s been some time, but hey, life’s too short to be writing e-mails every day. Anyhow, hope whatever season you’re in you’re having a good one. Well, I’ve now been in Sydney for nearly three months and it still seems an exciting and fun place to be staying. The only problem
Travels without a Plan #9
Olympics Countdown This will be my last mail from Sydney and obviously one issue is dominating the town, that is the small sporting event that will be starting here in a couple of days time. If Sydney was trying to remain calm and collected before, with only two days to go before the Opening Ceremony,
Travels without a Plan #7
Sydney Update Suppose I should send you all an update to keep you informed (can’t believe I’ve been in Sydney for nearly a month now!!). Anyhow, I still love Sydney. It’s a fantastic place, from its ultra modern high rise business district, the Harbour with the Opera House and Bridge, to the laid back atmosphere
Travels without a Plan #4
Shitty Shitty Bang Bang – Christchurch to Queenstown After a couple of days in Christchurch, looking at all the Rental options, we finally opted for the cheapest (yes, in the true backpacker style), and we were promised a 1982 Holden Commodore, which was delivered late, due to the owner claiming that the previous user had
Travels without a Plan #2
Bay of Islands and Rotorua I can’t believe that it has only been around 10 days of travelling, I seem to have been on the move for some time, but it’s all fun and its great meeting so many people all doing the same thing. Anyhow, what have I been up to?? Well after Auckland,
Travels without a Plan #1
Ki Ora from New Zealand Firstly, if anyone ever suggests that it would be a good idea to fly to Auckland directly from London, do them a favour and shoot them first, especially if any of that journey involves using British Airways, what a terrible airline. Qantas, however, is great. Really new, and very helpful
Xanadu
It is however, no ordinary embankment, but the remains of the walls and towers that girdled round twice five miles... Yes... this is the place.
Sabah Borneo, Malaysia – January 2000
Arrival As most travellers start their journey to Sabah from Kuala Lumpur, you should check with your travel agent on how to get to Kota Kinabalu,…
Puerto Williams, Chile
Getting There Fly to Santiago, Chile, by Lan Chile. Use a Chile Air Pass to economically fly within the country; e.g.
Black Forest, Germany
An immensity of vegetation surrounded by magical mountains in the southwest corner of Germany, a gateway to Central European history and legends...
Recife, Brazil
Located in the state of Pernambuco in northeastern Brazil, Recife is a passionate city with a rich sense of art and culture.



















