Dhaka

Updated October 2026

Overview and Things to Consider

Dhaka is one of the largest and densest cities on earth, with a metro area estimated at 22 million or more, and almost nobody comes here as a tourist. Bangladesh logged 585,145 foreign visitors in all of 2025, and arrivals in the first half of 2026 fell another 20 percent. That's the first thing to understand. There's no backpacker scene to speak of, and Hostelworld lists exactly two hostels. What you get instead is a capital that hasn't been rearranged for visitors, and a level of attention and help from strangers that a German traveler, writing about a village near Dhaka, told The Business Standard this year was 'epic friendliness'.

You'll love Dhaka if you came to Asia for street life at full volume, if food matters more to you than sights, or if you like a city where the rickshaws are painted with film stars, flowers and birds and the lanes of Old Dhaka fill with kite sellers every January. You'll hate it if you need quiet, clean air, sidewalks or a beer with dinner. The city runs more than 1.5 million rickshaws and has some of the worst traffic in the world, and alcohol is limited to licensed venues and permit holders.

The 2026 moment is political. In July and August 2024 a student-led uprising, which a UN investigation says left at least 1,400 dead, ended Sheikh Hasina's 15 years in power. A Yunus-led interim government ran the country until the election of February 12, 2026, which the BNP won with two-thirds of the seats while Hasina's Awami League was banned from standing. On August 5, 2026, Prime Minister Tarique Rahman opened the July Mass Uprising Memorial Museum in Hasina's former residence. The streets are calmer than in the summer of 2024, but fuel shortages, two fuel price rises and a measles outbreak have made this a hard year for the people who live here.

Some things are overrated. The Gulshan cafe circuit is where many short-stay visitors spend their whole trip, and it could be any upscale district in South Asia. The new airport expressway and the unopened Terminal 3 get the headlines, but they're things to pass through. Old Dhaka, the river and the food are the reason to come.

How Dhaka Got Here

Dhaka became a capital in 1610, when the Mughal governor Islam Khan made it the seat of Bengal Subah and named it Jahangirnagar after the emperor. For most of the 17th century it was one of the richest cities in Mughal India, the center of a muslin trade so dominant that the cloth was called 'Daka' as far away as Central Asia. Armenian, Portuguese, Dutch, French and British merchants all set up here. You can still read that era in Old Dhaka, in the unfinished Lalbagh Fort begun in 1678, the Armenian Church of the Holy Resurrection in Armanitola, and the crumbling caravanserai of Bara Katra by the Buriganga.

Under British rule the muslin economy collapsed, and Dhaka was a backwater until the 1905 partition of Bengal briefly made it a provincial capital again. The University of Dhaka followed in the 1920s. Partition in 1947 made it the capital of East Pakistan and emptied much of its Hindu population, which had been 58.5 percent of the city. In 1952 the Bengali language movement began here, and on March 25, 1971, the Pakistan Army's Operation Searchlight hit the city hardest of all. Independence that December made Dhaka a national capital, and since then rural migration has driven most of its growth, which explains both the sprawl and the energy.

The newest chapter is very recent. The 2024 uprising began as student protests over job quotas and grew into a national movement, and on August 5, 2024, crowds stormed both the prime minister's residence and the parliament building. The residence is now a museum that preserves the building in its post-storming state. For a visitor, that's the clearest sign of how fast this country's story is moving, and the reason two years on is a good time to come and listen.

Getting There and Around

Almost everyone arrives at Hazrat Shahjalal International Airport (DAC), about 20 kilometers north of the old center in Kurmitola. Its long-delayed Terminal 3, built largely with Japanese loans and partly inaugurated in October 2023, still isn't handling passengers, and the civil aviation minister said in September 2026 that it should open partially on December 16 with around 20 flights at first. Until then expect the old terminals and immigration lines that Wikivoyage calls notoriously long at peak hours. A cargo-area fire on October 18, 2025, shut the airport for about seven hours and diverted flights to Kolkata, Chittagong and Sylhet.

Every passport group most readers carry needs a visa, US, UK, EU, Canadian and Australian alike. Bangladesh offers a visa on arrival for tourism or business, single entry for up to 30 days, at US$51 or €51 in cash. It isn't guaranteed. Officers issue it at their discretion, and you should carry a return or onward ticket, a hotel booking and proof of funds. Since August 2026 you can fill in the arrival card and the visa on arrival form online through the Special Branch's e-arrival portal before you fly, which cuts the counter wait. The safer route is a visa in advance through the Bangladesh online visa system, where the fee table lists US$160 for a US single-entry visa and US$65 for British citizens. Your passport needs six months' validity and two blank pages, and you can extend a visa at the Department of Immigration and Passports in Agargaon.

From the airport, the easy choices are a ride-hailing car from Pathao or Uber, or a taxi arranged in advance through your hotel, which the UK government advises. Don't take offers from touts inside the terminal, which the UK government flags for overcharging and theft. If you're heading to Farmgate, Karwan Bazar or the center, ask the driver to take the expressway, an 11.5-kilometer raised toll road from Kawla by the airport that opened in September 2023 and skips the worst of Airport Road. Fares went up after the September 2026 fuel price rise, with motorbike riders adding Tk 20 to Tk 50 a trip, so check the in-app price before you accept. Airport Railway Station sits directly across from the terminal for trains north and into the city.

The single best tool in the city is MRT Line 6, run by Dhaka Mass Transit Company (DMTCL). It runs on a viaduct for about 20 kilometers through 16 stations from Uttara North to Motijheel, by way of Pallabi, Mirpur-10, Agargaon, Bijoy Sarani, Farmgate, Karwan Bazar, Shahbagh and Dhaka University. Fares start at Tk 20 and add Tk 5 a kilometer, so the full line is about Tk 100. As of August 2026 the first train left Uttara at 6:30am and the last left Motijheel at 10:30pm. It carried a record 499,756 riders on September 10, 2026, and riders who board mid-line travel packed in, so avoid rush hour if you can. An extension to Kamalapur railway station is due in 2027.

Everything off the metro line is a negotiation. Cycle rickshaws are the default for short hops, and you agree the fare before you sit down. CNGs, the green gas-powered auto-rickshaws, all have meters, which Wikivoyage says drivers can only sometimes be persuaded to use, so expect to bargain. City buses cost Tk 2.70 per kilometer under the September 2026 fare order, but they're signed in Bengali and packed. Walking works in Old Dhaka's lanes and almost nowhere on the main roads. Motorbike rides on Pathao are the fastest way through jams if you can stand the risk.

What's Changed Since 2016

December 2022 changed how the city moves. MRT Line 6 opened from Uttara to Agargaon on December 28, 2022, reached Motijheel on November 4, 2023, and has carried more than 313 million passengers since. For a visitor it turns the north-south trip from Uttara or Mirpur to Dhaka University and Motijheel into about half an hour, which no car can promise. The toll expressway from the airport to Farmgate followed in September 2023, and the Padma Bridge, opened in June 2022, cut travel times by road and rail between Dhaka and the southwest, including the way to the Sundarbans.

The river changed too. The last of the old paddle-wheel rocket steamers stopped running in October 2022, ending the slow trip south from Sadarghat that older guidebooks still describe. In November 2025 the restored PS Mahsud came back as a weekly heritage cruise, leaving Sadarghat at 8am on Fridays for Barishal and returning the next day. Private overnight launches still run to Barishal, and after the September 2026 diesel price rise their Dhaka to Barishal fares went up 17 to 20 percent.

July 2024 changed nearly everything else. The uprising and the fall of Sheikh Hasina's government on August 5, 2024, led to a Yunus-led interim government, the February 12, 2026, election and a BNP government under Tarique Rahman. The Maitree Express to Kolkata and the other two passenger trains to India were suspended on July 19, 2024, and when the two railways met in Dhaka in September 2026 to discuss restarting them, they still hadn't run, so check before you plan on one. Hasina's former residence, Ganabhaban, opened to the public on August 6, 2026, as the July Mass Uprising Memorial Museum.

Getting in got slightly easier in August 2026, when the immigration police put the arrival and departure cards and the visa on arrival application online. Getting a crowd got harder. Bangladesh had over 667,000 foreign visitors in 2023, 585,145 in 2025 and 239,400 in the first half of 2026, down about 20 percent. Tour operators blame political turmoil and embassy travel alerts.

2026 has been a rough year for prices and health. Fuel shortages tied to global supply disruptions led to limits on fuel sales, and the government raised fuel prices by Tk 15 to Tk 20 a liter in April 2026 and by Tk 20 more in September, pushing up bus, launch and ride-hailing fares. A measles outbreak that started in March had produced over 195,000 suspected cases and 1,122 deaths by October 3, 2026. And the Sundarbans, closed to tourists every June through August since 2021, closed again on June 1, 2026, and reopened on September 1.

What the Usual Advice Gets Wrong

"Just turn up, everyone gets a visa on arrival at Dhaka airport." The visa on arrival is real, US$51 in cash for up to 30 days, but the UK government stresses it's issued at the officer's discretion, and you'll need a return ticket and proof of funds, with a hotel booking strongly advised. Pre-fill the online form, available since August 2026, or get a visa in advance if a refused entry would wreck your trip.

"Take the Maitree Express from Kolkata, it's the classic way in." No passenger train has crossed the border since July 2024. Talks to restart the Maitree, Bandhan and Mitali Express were held in Dhaka in September 2026, but the trains hadn't restarted when they began. Check before you count on one, or fly, or take one of the buses Wikivoyage lists via the Benapole and Petrapole border, after checking it's running.

"Ride the rocket steamer overnight from Sadarghat to Khulna." The rocket steamers were withdrawn in October 2022. What exists now is the restored PS Mahsud on a weekly Friday heritage cruise to Barishal, plus private overnight launches to Barishal with single cabins at Tk 1,200 after the September 2026 fare rise.

"Winter, December to February, is the perfect time to visit." It's the coolest and driest time, with highs of 78°F (25°C) in January, but it's also when the air is worst. On January 29, 2026, Dhaka topped IQAir's world ranking with an AQI of 257, 'very unhealthy'. Go in winter by all means, and pack N95 masks.

"The Sundarbans make a good day trip from Dhaka." The forest is roughly 350 kilometers away, you can only get around it by boat, and Wikivoyage warns that day trips from Mongla mostly end at the Karamjal center with caged animals. Plan three or four days on a boat from Khulna or Mongla, between September and May, since the forest closes June through August.

Ideas to Consider for Your Visit

Have you thought about giving Old Dhaka a full day on foot, starting early before the heat and the trucks? Start at the pink Ahsan Manzil, the Nawabs' palace on the Buriganga, then walk the waterfront to Sadarghat to watch the launches load and the small wooden boats shuttle across the river. Cut north into Shankhari Bazar, the old Hindu lane that turns into the city's kite market before Shakrain, then on to the blue-starred Star Mosque in the old Armenian quarter and the Armenian Church nearby. Finish at Lalbagh Fort, begun in 1678 by Aurangzeb's son and never finished. Hire a rickshaw for the gaps and agree the fare first.

If food is a priority, eat your way through Old Dhaka's biryani lanes around Nazira Bazar. Haji Biryani has been serving since 1939 and still cooks a fixed amount each day, well below demand, so go early. Nanna Biryani, Hotel Al-Razzaque for rice-and-curry plates and Beauty Laccha Faluda are close by. Bakarkhani, a crisp layered bread eaten hot with tea at breakfast, is Old Dhaka's signature bake. In Dhanmondi, Star Kabab on Satmasjid Road is a local institution for beef and mutton kebabs. During Ramadan, the Chawkbazar iftar market sells Boro Baper Polay Khay, a mix of chickpeas, minced meat, brain, flattened rice and ghee, alongside goat leg roasts, suti kebabs and Shahi Jalebi from early afternoon.

Book a slot at the July Mass Uprising Memorial Museum, which opened in August 2026 in Ganabhaban, the former prime minister's residence just north of the parliament. Tickets are Tk 50 for adults and Tk 25 for children, and you have to register and book a date and time slot in advance on the July36 portal. The building has been kept in the state protesters left it in on August 5, 2024. It's the most direct way to understand what the country just went through, and almost every visitor around you will be Bangladeshi.

Get on the river. The cheapest version is a small wooden boat across the Buriganga from Sadarghat, but the bigger idea is an overnight launch to Barishal, sleeping in a cabin while the boat works its way down the delta. Deck space costs Tk 350, a single cabin Tk 1,200 and a double Tk 2,400 after the September 2026 rise. For something slower, the restored PS Mahsud, a century-old paddle steamer run by the state Bangladesh Inland Water Transport Corporation, leaves Sadarghat for Barishal at 8am every Friday. The UK government warns of overcrowding and unsafe vessels, especially around Eid, so travel off-peak and look for life jackets.

The Sundarbans, the world's largest mangrove forest and home to the Bengal tiger, is the best trip out of Dhaka, though it takes planning. Since the Padma Bridge opened in 2022, the southwest is much quicker to reach from the capital, and from Khulna or Mongla most visitors join a three- or four-day boat trip with a licensed operator. The Bangladesh Forest Department charges foreigners Tk 2,000 a day, and Tk 3,000 inside the three wildlife sanctuaries, under fees set in February 2022. Don't count on a tiger. Count on kingfishers, saltwater crocodiles and Gangetic river dolphins, and buy a Teletalk SIM, the only network that works across most of the forest. Go between September and May.

For a day out, Sonargaon is about 29 kilometers from Dhaka, the old regional seat of the Delhi and Bengal Sultanates. Its sights are spread out, which Wikivoyage counts as a plus, since you see village life on the way between them. Leave early and be back before dark, since the roads are far more dangerous at night. If you want rural Bangladesh without a tour bus, Ekduaria village in Narsingdi district runs a homestay where guests cook on mud stoves, fish in ponds and help milk the cows. Its host, Jafar Haidar Tuhin, charges around US$400 for two days for two people, including transport and food.

The Part Most Guides Miss

The best building in the city is Louis Kahn's Jatiya Sangsad Bhaban, the national parliament in Sher-e-Bangla Nagar, and most visitors never go. Kahn designed it for Pakistan's parliament after Ayub Khan named Dhaka a second capital, and the result is a roughly 208-acre complex of nine concrete blocks, the central one 155 feet high, standing in a lake that wraps around three sides. You can't go inside without authorization, but the complex grounds are open to visitors, and the best time is late afternoon, when joggers and skaters come out and Crescent Lake across Lake Road fills up. Protesters stormed the building on August 5, 2024, and the July Museum sits just to the north, so one afternoon covers both. Bijoy Sarani metro station is the nearest stop.

Where to Base Yourself

Gulshan and Banani. The diplomatic and business district in the north holds most of the embassies, the five-star hotels and the city's best-known restaurants, which makes it the easiest landing for a first visit. The catch is that it has no metro station and sits a long ride through traffic from Old Dhaka, and it can feel like a bubble. Wikivoyage also notes that some rickshaw drivers avoid the area because of informal payments to work it.

Dhanmondi. A residential neighborhood that the East Pakistan government laid out in the early 1950s, built around Dhanmondi Lake and home to Star Kabab. It sits between Gulshan and Old Dhaka, so a rickshaw or CNG gets you to Shahbagh, Dhaka University or the old city faster than from the north. It's the best base for a week or more if you want an ordinary neighborhood rather than a hotel zone. The catch is that the metro line skirts it, with no station inside.

Motijheel and Paltan. Bangladesh's biggest business district, by Motijheel metro station and Kamalapur railway station, puts you closest to Old Dhaka, Sadarghat and the trains out of the city. It suits travelers on a budget who want to walk into the old city early, before the traffic builds. Hotels here are basic to mid-range, and Old Dhaka itself has no high-end hotels at all.

Uttara. The northern suburb near the airport is where the metro starts, so you board at Uttara North with a good chance of a seat and ride to Dhaka University in about half an hour. One of the city's two hostels, zooFamily, is about 5 kilometers from the airport, with dorms from US$9. It's practical for a short stay or an early flight, but it's suburban and dull in the evening.

Realities to Be Aware Of

Dhaka is cheap for a foreigner, with a few traps. On a budget, figure US$20 to $30 a day for a dorm or basic room, rice-and-curry plates in Old Dhaka, metro rides and rickshaws. Mid-range travelers spend roughly US$60 to $100 for a decent hotel in Dhanmondi or Paltan, restaurant meals and ride-hailing cars. Comfortable means US$150 and up for a Gulshan hotel and its restaurants. The bigger fixed costs are the visa, US$51 to US$160, and any Sundarbans trip. ATMs are common in the city, and the UK government says they accept UK cards, though there are fewer in the countryside. You may need to declare large amounts of foreign currency or taka when you arrive.

Safety is the hard part. The UK government reports more violent crime since the 2024 uprising, with thieves working in pairs on motorbikes or in CNGs, and passengers in rickshaws, taxis, buses and trains at higher risk after dark. Keep your phone inside the vehicle and use ride-hailing apps at night. Women travelers face verbal and physical harassment, and the UK advises avoiding isolated areas alone at any time of day. Hartals, or general strikes, and political rallies can turn violent, so check the news and stay away from crowds with a police presence. The UK also says terrorists are very likely to try to carry out attacks, including at restaurants, religious buildings and crowded places.

Health needs planning. Typhoid is endemic, spread by contaminated water and food, with peaks during and after the monsoon, so drink bottled or filtered water and eat food that's cooked hot in front of you. Dengue rises from May to September. A measles outbreak since March 2026 has caused over 1,100 deaths, so check that your MMR shots are current. Air pollution is severe from November to March. Medical care is limited, so carry insurance that covers evacuation.

Bangladesh is a Muslim-majority country, and both men and women should dress modestly, with women covering shoulders and legs in public. Same-sex sexual activity is illegal, so LGBTQ+ travelers should stay discreet in public. Alcohol is limited to licensed venues and permits, and the UK has warned of deaths from black-market drinks laced with methanol. Carry photocopies of your passport and visa, since officials may ask for ID. During Ramadan, check restaurant hours by day, then head for the iftar markets in the afternoon. Around Eid, buses, trains and launches out of the city overflow, and the UK warns of dangerous overcrowding on boats during religious holidays.

If Dhaka Is Part of a Longer Trip

Dhaka sits on the overland gap between India and Southeast Asia, so it slots into a longer South Asia route, though the land links are weaker than they were. The Maitree Express to Kolkata has been suspended since July 2024, and talks to restart it only began in September 2026, so for now the overland route is a bus to the Benapole and Petrapole border, and most people fly. The Myanmar border is closed to overland travel, so heading east toward Yangon or Bangkok means flying. Regional flights from Dhaka reach Kathmandu, Paro in Bhutan, Singapore, Kuala Lumpur and Colombo.

If you're routing a multi-stop trip, Dhaka works best as one stop on a Kolkata, Dhaka, Kathmandu or Bangkok loop, and an AirTreks itinerary can stitch those flights together without backtracking through the Gulf. Within Bangladesh, trains to Sylhet, Chittagong and most other big cities leave from Kamalapur two or three times a day, and Bangladesh Railway trains fill up, so book ahead. The UK advises against all but essential travel to the Chittagong Hill Tracts districts of Rangamati, Khagrachari and Bandarban, so leave them out of your plans for now.

Yearly Things to Consider

Two things drive Dhaka's year, the monsoon and the calendar. About 86 percent of the year's rain falls from May to October, with 13 to 15 inches a month from May to July, and April is the hottest month, with highs around 93°F (34°C). November to February is dry, with highs of 78°F to 85°F (25°C to 30°C), and that's when most visitors come. It's also when the air is worst, with brick kilns, traffic and still air pushing the AQI into 'very unhealthy' on bad days in January.

The counterintuitive pick is late October and November, after the rain eases and before the winter smog peaks, with the Sundarbans open again. Mid-January has Shakrain, when Old Dhaka's rooftops fill with kites and the Buriganga bank with fireworks and lanterns. Ramadan changes the city's daily rhythm, and the two Eids send huge numbers home to their villages, so every bus, train and launch is packed. Pohela Boishakh, the Bengali New Year on April 14, draws big crowds to Shahbag, Ramna Park and the Dhaka University campus.

Ideas for Itineraries

3 Days in Dhaka

Day one is Old Dhaka. Start at Ahsan Manzil early, walk to Sadarghat and take a boat across the Buriganga, then work north through Shankhari Bazar, the Star Mosque and the Armenian Church, with biryani around Nazira Bazar for lunch and Lalbagh Fort in the afternoon. Day two runs along the metro. Ride from Motijheel to Dhaka University for Curzon Hall and the Shaheed Minar, then up to Bijoy Sarani for the parliament grounds at sunset. Day three is your booked slot at the July Museum, then Dhanmondi Lake in the afternoon and kebabs at Star Kabab.

5 Days in Dhaka

Add two days to the three-day plan. Day four is a day trip to Sonargaon, 29 kilometers out, leaving early and back before dark. On day five, take a slow morning in Gulshan or Banani, then cross back to Old Dhaka for the evening when the lanes fill with shoppers. If you're here during Ramadan, swap day five for the Chawkbazar iftar market in the afternoon. If it's mid-January, plan around Shakrain and find a rooftop.

1 Week in Dhaka

Spend three days in the city as above, then go south. Take an overnight launch from Sadarghat to Barishal, sleeping in a cabin, or catch the PS Mahsud if it's a Friday. From Barishal, continue by road to Khulna or Mongla for a three-day Sundarbans boat trip with a licensed operator, between September and May. Come back to Dhaka by road over the Padma Bridge, which takes far less time than the old ferry crossings did, and use your last day for anything you missed in Old Dhaka.

2 Weeks or More in Dhaka

Two weeks lets you settle in. Base yourself in Dhanmondi, which is central, residential and less of a bubble than Gulshan. Spend the first week learning the city at a slower pace, with an Old Dhaka morning every other day, the July Museum, the parliament grounds and long evenings at the lakes. Use weekends for trips out, the Ekduaria village homestay in Narsingdi, Sonargaon, or a train from Kamalapur to Sylhet. Use the second week for the river launch, Barishal and the Sundarbans. Set up Pathao and Uber on day one, since you'll use them every day.

Sources

What this guide is built on. Every page below was read for this guide; prices and rules were checked in October 2026.

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